jimboslice

Well I just got the amsoil delivered to me... so I don't wanna have to buy more oil and then flush it out. I really didn't put that much seafoam in my crankcase. Can I just get away with draining it and then putting the new oil in?
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I wouldn't risk it. Flush it with cheap stuff, then run the amsoil.

jeremeep

Well I just got the amsoil delivered to me... so I don't wanna have to buy more oil and then flush it out. I really didn't put that much seafoam in my crankcase. Can I just get away with draining it and then putting the new oil in?
[/quote]

I wouldn't risk it. Flush it with cheap stuff, then run the amsoil.
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How long should I let it run once I pour the cheap stuff in? Should I go for a drive?

MBHs2k

You could just buy a few really cheap quarts of oil and run it through the engine and immediately out the pan. Hopefully that will carry everything out. Honestly though driving the car wouldn't be terrible IMO and changing the oil is probably more than enough to make sure the engine is safe

jkelley

Well I just got the amsoil delivered to me... so I don't wanna have to buy more oil and then flush it out. I really didn't put that much seafoam in my crankcase. Can I just get away with draining it and then putting the new oil in?
[/quote]

I wouldn't risk it. Flush it with cheap stuff, then run the amsoil.
[/quote]

How long should I let it run once I pour the cheap stuff in? Should I go for a drive?
[/quote]
Yes. a short drive should do the trick. 5 miles or so. I don't know if this is correct or not and if experienced mechs/techs would agree but I would THINK you would also want to engage vtec a few times.

I don't know a whole lot about engine and where oil goes while running... but my line of work includes decontamination of reactor vessels which is essentially what you're doing here. Putting in the cheap synthetic is a dilution agent. With how much you put in (2-3 oz) I think you will be more than safe running on the cheap synthetic for a few thousand miles since you would probably only have the equivalent of 0.02-0.03 oz if you assume you dropped out 99% of your oil when refilling with cheap synthetic. This is probably ZERO in reality... because it's also going activate with the carbon-based deposits and become inert anyways (non-active). Then when you drop your oil again @ 99% loss... you're looking at a theoretical absolute maximum at 0.0002-0.0003 oz .... a few assumptions included.

jeremeep

Well I just got the amsoil delivered to me... so I don't wanna have to buy more oil and then flush it out. I really didn't put that much seafoam in my crankcase. Can I just get away with draining it and then putting the new oil in?
[/quote]

I wouldn't risk it. Flush it with cheap stuff, then run the amsoil.
[/quote]

How long should I let it run once I pour the cheap stuff in? Should I go for a drive?
[/quote]
Yes. a short drive should do the trick. 5 miles or so. I don't know if this is correct or not and if experienced mechs/techs would agree but I would THINK you would also want to engage vtec a few times.

I don't know a whole lot about engine and where oil goes while running... but my line of work includes decontamination of reactor vessels which is essentially what you're doing here. Putting in the cheap synthetic is a dilution agent. With how much you put in (2-3 oz) I think you will be more than safe running on the cheap synthetic for a few thousand miles since you would probably only have the equivalent of 0.02-0.03 oz if you assume you dropped out 99% of your oil when refilling with cheap synthetic. This is probably ZERO in reality... because it's also going activate with the carbon-based deposits and become inert anyways (non-active). Then when you drop your oil again @ 99% loss... you're looking at a theoretical absolute maximum at 0.0002-0.0003 oz .... a few assumptions included.
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Well i am just gonna put the cheap oil in, drive my car for about 5 miles and engage VTEC, and then drop that oil and put the amsoil in. Should work just fine!

_brandon

You can do that but like billman was saying it wont do really anything for the valves. My S is incredibly noisey, but after taking it to quite a few mechanics who do lots of work on s2000s (and own them) they said the noise is most likely normal. So I pretty much gave up and will see what breaks.. So far after 20k+ miles nothing and still sounds noisey but drives fine. Valve adjustment, inspection of valves (using a camera down the spark plug tube), compression test (good across board), and even dropping the oil pan to inspect rod bearings. Nothing. I wouldnt be too paranoid with this car. Drive it like you stole it until something actually breaks.

jeremeep

I'm just wondering if its even necessary to buy more oil and flush it through and then put the synthetic amsoil in. Don't wanna waste my money if its not needed.

CoolGuy094

Its not a bad idea to do a nice flush like that anyway. I recently had some gasoline contamination in my oil into a pretty fresh crankcase of Amsoil. I drained it, filled it with 5 quarts of cheap Mobil 1 5w30 and ran it for a few hundred miles. Then drained it again and filled with new Amsoil. I didn't want to risk contaminating the new Amsoil with any more gasoline that was left over. One of the 5 quart containers of Mobil 1 is pretty cheap at Walmart.

cosmomiller

$25 at mine. Thats why I change the oil every 3K miles (w/Honda filter) to keep things clean. Price is great.

jeremeep

I spent 15 bucks on 4 quarts of cheap oil and I had 1 quart of mobil1. I drained my oil, put in the cheap stuff and went for a 10 minute drive. Came back and emptied that out and put in the amsoil and amsoil filter. Its running primetime! Gonna let me car sit and do a valve adjustment in the morning. The last time I did a valve adjustment my motor wasn't stone cold so I think they are out of spec.

Im hoping the amsoil is better than the mobil1, It seemed like I was burning a lot of oil while running mobil1. We will see what happens with the amsoil!