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Scraping Noise - Driver Side Rear

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Old 04-10-2021, 03:58 PM
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Default Scraping Noise - Driver Side Rear

Hello all, I am experiencing a scraping noise from the driver side rear end. This noise is audible whether in or out of gear and is especially noticeable at slow speeds in neutral. The noise is similar to a pad-on-rotor scraping, so I figured that brakes might be the culprit.

It was time for new rotors anyway, and I decided to go ahead and just replace calipers, rotors, and pads all at once. I have the car up on jack stands currently and the driver side is currently sans rotor, pads, and caliper. I decided to try spinning the axle by the lug nuts on the driver side rear. Sadly, the noise is still occurring and it seems to be between the wheel hub and the diff somewhere. None of the other wheels suffer from such a noise.

Does anyone have any solid leads as to what this noise might be, and if so, how difficult/costly it might be to repair? It doesn't seem like a wheel bearing to me. Didn't seem to have play in the rear wheel and didn't have the noise that many describe at higher speeds with wheel bearing issues.

Edit: here is a link to the noise:
Loose axle nut perhaps? I hope it's something as simple as that.
Old 04-10-2021, 08:18 PM
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After some research, I've settled on loose axle nut, bad wheel bearing, or bad CV joint most probably. Axle nut is the easiest to try fixing first, so I will probably do that. Still, don't want to drive the car much with this issue. I'm at just over 150k miles. Should I go ahead and do wheel bearings just to be safe? After further inspection, the noise seems to be coming from further out than the rear diff, closer to the wheel hub. Could be bearing or axle nut.
Old 04-10-2021, 08:35 PM
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Change the wheel bearing if it's making noise, it's making that noise for a reason. Your safety is at stake if you keep driving on a bad wheel bearing. You can buy a used knuckle and save time and having to use a press. However you take a gamble as you could be buying a bad wheel bearing. Make sure if you do go the used route to get a era appropriate knuckle.
Old 04-10-2021, 08:56 PM
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This isn't a daily driver, so continuing to drive it isn't an issue. At best, I want to have it drivable by the end of the month in order to get emissions inspection to renew my tag. Also have intermittent P0137 and P0138 codes, probably bad downstream O2 sensor which is an easy enough fix.

I will go ahead and plan to do both rear wheel bearings for now. Any recommendation on source? Will save front as it's easy enough to pop back up on jack stands to replace fronts if I start to have issues in the future. Plus, I just want to be done with it for now after doing the whole brake job in addition to this.
Old 04-11-2021, 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by s2knkde
This isn't a daily driver, so continuing to drive it isn't an issue. At best, I want to have it drivable by the end of the month in order to get emissions inspection to renew my tag. Also have intermittent P0137 and P0138 codes, probably bad downstream O2 sensor which is an easy enough fix.

I will go ahead and plan to do both rear wheel bearings for now. Any recommendation on source? Will save front as it's easy enough to pop back up on jack stands to replace fronts if I start to have issues in the future. Plus, I just want to be done with it for now after doing the whole brake job in addition to this.
.
FWIW I got non Honda box, OEM wheel bearings and Doorman hubs on my car, and have had them on for 6 years, going on 7 in a few months. Bought them on flea bay.
Old 04-11-2021, 08:30 AM
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Thanks, just ordered rear hubs and OEM bearings on Ebay. Will need 36mm and 3/4 breaker bar. Can use air impact wrench to remove 36mm axle nut, but don't want to risk over tightening with impact.

If I'm correct, I should just need snap ring pliers, ball joint separator, the 36mm socket and 3/4 breaker bar (have cheater pipe if needed). Already got annoyed and drilled out rusty rotor screws so won't need impact screwdriver. Might replace with new rotor screws and hand tighten.

I'm not sure if new hubs come with bearings installed or not. Have access to a shop press if needed, but not sure about die situation. Or, could have dealer or local shop do that for somewhat cheap, I'm sure.

Can I use a chisel to unstake and stake the axle nut? Is unstaking necessary?

Are there any other tools I'm forgetting? I have everything to do brakes/calipers already including torque wrench. Don't have a wrench that goes up to 250ft-lbs though. Will follow Rear Axle Nut TSB and go 60 past OEM.

Note that I'm following this DIY for my info: https://robrobinette.com/S2000Bearing.htm
Thanks for your advice!

Old 04-15-2021, 02:34 PM
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So, I pulled off the steering knuckle on the offending side today (going to pull off passenger side as well to do new bearings and hubs). And, it seems as though the grinding noise is coming from the axle near the diff.

I don't have reason to suspect a problem with the diff, since the noise only occurs on the driver side, but this may be an improper line of thinking.

Am I best off replacing the CV axle? Since I've already torn into the suspension this far, it wouldn't be too difficult to replace axle at this point. Ugh.
Old 04-15-2021, 03:00 PM
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There is no way it’s the axle.

You have something rubbing, should be easy to spot.
Old 04-15-2021, 05:03 PM
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Thanks Bill. Still planning to swap Left & Right CV buckets due to suspected (almost definite) pitting. Don't see anything rubbing but I will get back under there tomorrow and take a closer look.

This gentleman (https://www.s2000.com/forums/engine-...verse-1st.html) noted grinding noise and solved by changing diff fluid. I am definitely overdue, so will do that as well.

Want to do everything I possibly can to preserve & prolong while I have the car put up now. Planning bucket swap, all fluids changed (besides oil which was just changed a month ago), rear hubs & bearings, all new calipers & rotors, retorque rear axle nuts.
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