SC with 4.57 or 4.77 ricks gears
04-22-2004, 08:18 PM
#22
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Only thing holding me back from the 4.57s is finding someone competent to do the install. Seems like there's a lot of horror stories. Anyone have any SF Bay Area recommendations? Also, I have the Comptech Reinforced differential...does this change the install at all?
04-23-2004, 05:25 PM
#26
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actually, break in is easy and quick. here's the down and dirty from richmond gears. the whole doc can be found here:
http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf
A new ring and pinion installation, especially a high
numeric ratio with new bearings, can cause an excessive
heat buildup in the rear end and cause softening of the
gear teeth and bearings if a break in is not performed.
Street vehicles should be driven at normal street driving
speed for approximately 10 miles, then stop and let cool for
30 minutes. Do this 2 to 3 times. Towing vehicles need
approximately 200 to 300 miles of normal street driving
before being used for towing.
On circle track race cars make approximately 6 to 8 laps at
slow speed, then let cool for 30 minutes. Make 6 to 8 more
laps at slow speed, then 2 to 3 laps at full speed, then let
cool again for 30 minutes.
Drag cars need only an initial run-in since they are driven
short distances and heat is not normally a problem with
proper lube and backlash allowance.
NOTE: If after the above break in is performed, overheating
of the rear end is suspected, repeat the final portion of the
break in procedures.
numeric ratio with new bearings, can cause an excessive
heat buildup in the rear end and cause softening of the
gear teeth and bearings if a break in is not performed.
Street vehicles should be driven at normal street driving
speed for approximately 10 miles, then stop and let cool for
30 minutes. Do this 2 to 3 times. Towing vehicles need
approximately 200 to 300 miles of normal street driving
before being used for towing.
On circle track race cars make approximately 6 to 8 laps at
slow speed, then let cool for 30 minutes. Make 6 to 8 more
laps at slow speed, then 2 to 3 laps at full speed, then let
cool again for 30 minutes.
Drag cars need only an initial run-in since they are driven
short distances and heat is not normally a problem with
proper lube and backlash allowance.
NOTE: If after the above break in is performed, overheating
of the rear end is suspected, repeat the final portion of the
break in procedures.
04-23-2004, 09:26 PM
#28
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you can thank rick for that link. he pointed me in that direction before i got my own 4.77's installed. i was happy to hear my 2 hour drive back home wasn't going to be at 55 mph. 
04-24-2004, 07:14 AM
#29
FYI
To anyone who would us the above PDF as the only installation guide for your Honda gears. DO NOT use the torque settings, use only the Honda specs. And just becuase 7/16 is almost 10mm, that spec will damage the bolts and you wil have to place them. Failure to follow this warning will cause damage to your car.
To anyone who would us the above PDF as the only installation guide for your Honda gears. DO NOT use the torque settings, use only the Honda specs. And just becuase 7/16 is almost 10mm, that spec will damage the bolts and you wil have to place them. Failure to follow this warning will cause damage to your car.
04-24-2004, 07:46 AM
#30
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mmm ... thanks for policing the thread, strat. i should have mentioned i posted that link ONLY for the break in procedures. as far as torquing specs go, 4.77's use the stock specs you can find in the helms. i won't speak for the rest of the gear seats, only 4.77. and always have a qualified mechanic do it. this isn't a job for amateurs. it took mark basch most of his day to do my install, and they don't come any better than he.
if there would be anyone i'd personally recommend for the install, it would be basch acura, comptech, or ganley honda, in no particular order.
if there would be anyone i'd personally recommend for the install, it would be basch acura, comptech, or ganley honda, in no particular order.