SARD vs AEM FPR
09-18-2004, 06:06 PM
#1
Thread Starter
SARD vs AEM FPR
I know there is a few of you running the SARD FPR. Is there anybody running the AEM FPR which I think its part number AEM 25-301B. I dont know SARDS part #.
id like a comparison between the 2. Obviously I never ran either so thats why im asking for comparisons and/or issues.
I would probably go the AEM route since its relatively cheaper from what i have seen and can flow engines in excess of 1000 hp
id like a comparison between the 2. Obviously I never ran either so thats why im asking for comparisons and/or issues.
I would probably go the AEM route since its relatively cheaper from what i have seen and can flow engines in excess of 1000 hp
09-18-2004, 06:30 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have the AEM, and the only challenge is the two washer for the banjo fitting. It came with some stainless washers which caused a slight leak so I changed them for some thicker brass ones. This helped the problem a great deal, but under very close inspection there is a slight vapor discharge still occurring. It is visible since the banjo section is shiny black and the vapor produce wets the black finish. I have tightened it as much as possible, but not completely sealed. I will have to find a better washer. Asides from that it works exceptionally with the turbo application.
09-18-2004, 07:25 PM
#3
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by blues2k3,Sep 18 2004, 09:30 PM
I have the AEM, and the only challenge is the two washer for the banjo fitting. It came with some stainless washers which caused a slight leak so I changed them for some thicker brass ones. This helped the problem a great deal, but under very close inspection there is a slight vapor discharge still occurring. It is visible since the banjo section is shiny black and the vapor produce wets the black finish. I have tightened it as much as possible, but not completely sealed. I will have to find a better washer. Asides from that it works exceptionally with the turbo application.
I dont like anything that leaks under my hood even if its just vapors, well no one does
09-19-2004, 05:09 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: NYC
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well with gas you have to be careful with sealant. Usually the gas will breakdown most silicone or teflon based sealers. There is one type sold in HomeDepot that works. It comes in a yellow tube, I do not remember the name right now. I have used it on various application with minor fuel leaks successfully. Ive been very busy at work and no time to pick some up, and to be safe the car has not been moved yet.
09-19-2004, 06:46 AM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: The Beach, CA
Posts: 5,372
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hondabond says it's "resistant to gasoline, oil, water, and most chemicals"
If you want to use the hondabond, I can stop by and lend u some.
Gasoline does sit in the oil on cars with a lot of blow-by. Plus I've had the hondabond sitting in my gasoline cleaning tub I use to clean parts for months now and I've seen that they're still strong and not broken down yet.
If you want to use the hondabond, I can stop by and lend u some.
Gasoline does sit in the oil on cars with a lot of blow-by. Plus I've had the hondabond sitting in my gasoline cleaning tub I use to clean parts for months now and I've seen that they're still strong and not broken down yet.
Trending Topics
09-20-2004, 09:46 PM
#10
I don't like banjo fittings and crush washers because you can't pull apart and reassemble without new washers or sealant. Even the slightest chance of fuel spraying around my engine bay is not worth saving a few bucks to me.
What does the SARD cost there anyway? It's about $AUD330 here.
What does the SARD cost there anyway? It's about $AUD330 here.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post