BionicPimp

Hey all,

New discovery. I had a buddy hold the clutch in while I tried to crank the engine with a socket wrench, and it was frozen solid. when the clutch is out, then i can spin the engine pretty freely. So i think something with the clutch is stopping the engine from turning over when the starter cranks. I did go and check all the ground wires and they looked solidly wired to me. I think the shop that did my clutch fubar'ed the job.

4forall

Well you said you drove it after the clutch was install correct? So its pretty safe to say the install did not cause the issue.

You replaced the slave cylinder correct? The one down on the transmission? If so i would pull that off to ensure your fork is seated correctly. The issue started after you tinkered with it. Also when you spin the motor with the socket is that clutch engaged in neutral? And when your buddy held the pedal for you is that clutch dis-engaged in neutral as well?

BionicPimp

Yeah, I was driving for a day when the clutch slave went out, so I know logically that the clutch should be okay and the slave going out is a separate issue, but my paranoia makes me want to believe that they're related.

When I cranked the engine with the socket, the car was in neutral, clutch was not engaged. When I tried to crank it and it was frozen, the car was in neutral, and my buddy just engaged the clutch, but didn't put it into gear.

I'll check the fork. That does make the most sense.

do you guys know if we can manipulate the fork without dropping trans. I know you can pull the fork off of the release bearing from looking at the honda manual, but it doesn't say too much else. I don't want to pull the fork off of the bearing, unless I know I can push it back on without having to take the tranny off.

CoolGuy094

Unless something is screwed, you should be able to remove the slave and pull the fork away from the transmission housing. The fork will be loose and wobbly, but you can't remove it from the transmission. You should then be able to shove it back into the transmission housing and engage it into the clip again. The TO bearing isn't going anywhere. The guide and the pressure plate keep it in place so you can slide the fork on and off as much as you want. Re-seat the slave and bolt it back in. Push the clutch pedal a few time and peek into the vents on the dust boot to ensure the fork is moving properly when the clutch pedal is depressed.

If you were properly driving the car after the clutch change, then the clutch job couldn't have been screwed THAT bad.

I didn't have to remove my starter when I changed my clutch. Just the top bolt.

DirtySouthS2K305

Check the clutch engagement sensor, you know the little switch that notifies the ecu that the clutch has been engaged so you can start the car. Thats what it sounds like to me

MM3Kwolik

The starter wouldn't be engaging at all if that was the issue..... it's either go or no go with that one.....

BionicPimp

ALL HAIL THE WISDOM OF CROWDS!!!

It turns out it was the shift fork all along. When the clutch slave cylinder blew out, the fork must have popped out of place a little. The odd thing is when I replaced the slave, the clutch pedal (it felt a *little* heavier, but not too much) still actuated the clutch plate effectively. I could pop the manual into and out of gear and it didn't feel noticeably weird.

Anyway, I popped off the slave, the clutch fork boot, pulled the fork off and re-seated it. all in all, a 15 min job...kind of embarrassing how easy it was, considering how long it took for me to finally get the S2K fixed.

Thank you all for your kind advice. I couldn't have gotten it done without the help of the community.

4forall

Awesome glad you got your S back! Enjoy

MM3Kwolik

Thanks for posting back as to what it was. Glad you got it straightened out.