S2K won't start after clutch/SMC replacement
#1
S2K won't start after clutch/SMC replacement
Hey guys,
I have a 2004 NFR S2k that just had the clutch replaced. I was driving it on the first day back, and all of a sudden, the clutch fell to the floor, and wouldn't come back up...sound's like the slave master cylinder, right? It was, I replaced that, bleed out the hydraulic system and the clutch action seemed to return. Now when I start it, I get this weird sound. It sounds like a dead battery, but it's not. The battery is brand new, and I also had it tested at autozone...fully charged. I'm completely at a loss. I have a link to me trying to start the engine. If anyone has some advice it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
http://youtu.be/1R6_YYOU4_c
I have a 2004 NFR S2k that just had the clutch replaced. I was driving it on the first day back, and all of a sudden, the clutch fell to the floor, and wouldn't come back up...sound's like the slave master cylinder, right? It was, I replaced that, bleed out the hydraulic system and the clutch action seemed to return. Now when I start it, I get this weird sound. It sounds like a dead battery, but it's not. The battery is brand new, and I also had it tested at autozone...fully charged. I'm completely at a loss. I have a link to me trying to start the engine. If anyone has some advice it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
http://youtu.be/1R6_YYOU4_c
#5
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: San Diego
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Like everyone else said I would check your battery, more specifically the terminals to make sure they aren't loose and then make sure that your starter was re-installed properly. Our '04 MDX was doing had the same issue and it turned out to be the negative terminal being loose.
#6
Thanks for the good advice all,
I went and checked the voltage with my multimeter just now. It was showing 12.71 volts with no load, and 9.5v while I'm starting the car. I think that should be pretty good for cold cranking amps, but that's just a guess on my part.
I'll take a look at the starter tomorrow when there's more light. Thanks All!
I went and checked the voltage with my multimeter just now. It was showing 12.71 volts with no load, and 9.5v while I'm starting the car. I think that should be pretty good for cold cranking amps, but that's just a guess on my part.
I'll take a look at the starter tomorrow when there's more light. Thanks All!
#7
Registered User
What is a slave master cylinder? Do you mean clutch master cylinder or clutch slave cylinder?
You sure the battery is good? 9.5v seems marginal to me.
"The battery should be able to maintain at least 10 volts for up to 20 seconds of cranking the starter with a cold engine."
http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/universal/ba101.htm
"Crank for 15 seconds (no longer); the battery voltage should remain 9.6 volts or above. "
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...stions/4221215
You sure the battery is good? 9.5v seems marginal to me.
"The battery should be able to maintain at least 10 volts for up to 20 seconds of cranking the starter with a cold engine."
http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/universal/ba101.htm
"Crank for 15 seconds (no longer); the battery voltage should remain 9.6 volts or above. "
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...stions/4221215
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#8
Just swapped out the battery with a brand new one. still no luck. I'll check the starter, but I'm having a hard time believing that it's a coincidence that the clutch slave cylinder *and* the starter motor went bad right after getting the clutch worked on...but I can't for the life of me figure out what it could be.
#9
Ok, I just replaced the starter with a "brand new" re manufactured one from NAPA, and still the same issue. I can manually crank the engine using a socket, and it spins freely enough, I also could see the flywheel moving while the starter was out. it seemed to look okay. (BTW, the starter is a b*tch to change on the S2K, worst I've ever done...) The only thing I can think of now is that the release fork, or the bearing is somehow fubar'ed. Anyone have any experience with a fubar'd release fork?
#10
Sounds like a bad ground to me. Check ALL of your grounds. Battery to Firewall, Grounds from under the ABS to Block, Block to Subframe. Check all wires going to the starter as well. Sounds like the starter is engaging just fine but isn't getting all the power it needs. So it's either A) A loose ground/bad connection or B) A bad battery. I know you replaced the battery too, but I've seen batteries be bad from off the shelf. Get a wire brush and go through all your connections and redo them all and report back.