S2000s and wheel bearings
#1
S2000s and wheel bearings
Does there seem to be a wheel bearing problem with the s2000s? I have recently replaced two, including a hub because the bearings destroyed half of it. I also notice quite a few people on here making posts with the same issues.
I just never noticed this problem being as common back in the fwd honda scene. And there were tons more of those cars.
Any input?
I just never noticed this problem being as common back in the fwd honda scene. And there were tons more of those cars.
Any input?
#3
Moderator
IF the axle nut is torqued properly, it will never be an issue for at least 150k miles.
If not then you will constantly eat bearings, and hubs.
A new bearing put on a bad hub will last a week.
If not then you will constantly eat bearings, and hubs.
A new bearing put on a bad hub will last a week.
#4
Originally Posted by zoomspeed05,May 26 2010, 07:22 AM
what were your symptoms? i think my rear driver is bad!
Billman - Yea, I found that out the hard way.. I put a wheel bearing on a bad hub and it lasted for about 20 minutes before having some noise, and then a day until it started banging and grinding. I never got the chance to check the previous torque spec because everything was already broken. I took everything off to replace the bearings without thinking to check it. It is fixed now however.
#6
Former Moderator
Yep, I have replaced both rear hubs on my MY07 -- the left rear twice. When the bearing goes, you hear a faint revolving scraping noise that intensifies as the hub gets warmed up and increases with further driving. I have thought that the difficulty is probably associated with the heat from braking and cornering on the track.
#7
Moderator
I have 105k on my 2003.
Many track days, dragons (nine of them)
I did the "axle nut tsb" on the nuts when i got the car new and I'm still on original bearings and hubs.
Number one cause (prertty much the only cause) is an axle nut that is not tight enough.
I don't know where i set the nut. But i can feel when it is tight as it needs to be. I'm guessing its past 220 ft-lbs. I will try to get an accurate torque reading of whre i set the nut.
Here's a great rule of thumb on an axle nut that has never been disturbed from the factory: unstake it, remove it, grease the face only, and re-tighten. The STAKE mark while you unstaked will move from 12oclock to 2oclock, to get the correct torque.
This has proved itself on a few hundred s2ks.
Many track days, dragons (nine of them)
I did the "axle nut tsb" on the nuts when i got the car new and I'm still on original bearings and hubs.
Number one cause (prertty much the only cause) is an axle nut that is not tight enough.
I don't know where i set the nut. But i can feel when it is tight as it needs to be. I'm guessing its past 220 ft-lbs. I will try to get an accurate torque reading of whre i set the nut.
Here's a great rule of thumb on an axle nut that has never been disturbed from the factory: unstake it, remove it, grease the face only, and re-tighten. The STAKE mark while you unstaked will move from 12oclock to 2oclock, to get the correct torque.
This has proved itself on a few hundred s2ks.
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#9
Billman- good info! i will double check my car asap. those bearings and hubs are pricey.
one more thing i'd like to add.. My wheels had NO play whatsoever. They still made incredibly loud banging, etc, noises.
one more thing i'd like to add.. My wheels had NO play whatsoever. They still made incredibly loud banging, etc, noises.
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