>> S2000 Valve Adjustment, Step-By-Step
12-31-2003, 05:08 PM
#76
Registered User
Great write up. One accessory that I have found handy is one of those magnetized parts trays, such as sold by Griot's Garage. They have strong magnets attached to a stainless steel tray, and will hold any metallic part - you know, the ones that can, and often do, migrate to the 4th dimension. And following Murphy's Laws, it will be one of the parts you cannot find anywhere but at Honda, and they won't be open, and if they were, you would have to special order them anyway, prepaid.
This set of offset feeler gauges has the right dimensions, and is pre-bent at about 45 degrees, making further adjustments easier. The set is made of high carbon steel, and nicely priced at $5.76.
p.n. 8674A41
www.mcmaster.com
This set of offset feeler gauges has the right dimensions, and is pre-bent at about 45 degrees, making further adjustments easier. The set is made of high carbon steel, and nicely priced at $5.76.
p.n. 8674A41
www.mcmaster.com
12-31-2003, 05:40 PM
#78
Registered User
Yes, I forgot to mention that is it easier to bend ones already bent to 45 to 90 as you indicate.
While reading this thread, I recalled I had a cool tool (from Engulend) that combines all three tools into 1! It loosens the locknet, screws the adjuster, and sets the gap without need of the feeler gauge. I used to use it to do valve adjustments on my Dad's Mazda 626. I am not sure it will work on the S2000, but the principle is the same. You would just need a 10mm 1/2" socket, and the feeler gaurges to get the reference point for the clicks.
Check it out:
http://www.aep.bigstep.com/clik.htm
While reading this thread, I recalled I had a cool tool (from Engulend) that combines all three tools into 1! It loosens the locknet, screws the adjuster, and sets the gap without need of the feeler gauge. I used to use it to do valve adjustments on my Dad's Mazda 626. I am not sure it will work on the S2000, but the principle is the same. You would just need a 10mm 1/2" socket, and the feeler gaurges to get the reference point for the clicks.
Check it out:
http://www.aep.bigstep.com/clik.htm
03-07-2004, 08:54 AM
#79
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: salem
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Thought I'd share something that made VC removal easy. Just before removal, re-install the bolts that secure the ignition coils in place at cylinder 1 and 4. Insert them about 5-6 threads, this gave me the PERFECT point to lift the VC straight up.