When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Both cam gears and crank gear lined up for TDC.
Note the position of number one cam lobes. 11 and 1 o'clock.
Just a little feeler on the exhaust side of the house
Edit; Disregard both following paragraphs. I ate my words. I was thinking the cam gear sprocket rotated the same as the crankshaft. I marked the crank bolt to verify crankshaft position.
Rotate the CRANKSHAFT 180 deg clockwise, as per the book. Go Honda!
I tried to follow the directions in the book (page 6-12, step 7.). It states "Rotate the crankshaft 180 deg clockwise (camshaft gears turn 90 deg.)"
I must have checked and triple checked this out. I conclude the book is wrong. If you rotate the crank 180, you will be set up for No. 4 cylinder. Look at the pics. If I'm wrong on this, I will eat my words.
If you rotate the crankshaft 90 deg clockwise, the camshaft will rotate the same amount, but counterclockwise. This lines up No. 3 cylinder/cam lobe for it's adjustment, as shown below.
Rotate the crank another 90 deg and do the same for No. 4. Note cam lobe position
Rotate the crank for the last 90 deg and check No. 2.
I am not sure which one was sensor TDC 1 and 2. So I took off the driver side sensor, figuring that would be the one giving grief.
Next time I will remove the black heat shield to aid in access to No. 3 and 4 exhaust valves.
I also spent the $30 + for the head gasket and head cover washers kit.
Overall a good experience. At just under 50,000 miles, I figured that I'd give it a shot.
I feel good about this car. I didn't need to adjust the valves. I've only took it into the dealer once, for the spark plug TSB. I have never had a wheel alignment. I have only bought two rear tires. I almost never check the tire pressure. I change the oil and filter at 6,000 miles. Everything else I have done, was textbook perfect. This Honda ROCKS!
Last weekend, I helped my son adjust the valves on my MY '68 Bug. We needed to adjust both intake and exhaust valves on No. 3 and 4 cylinders. I've worked this engine since new, 75,000 miles ago. In it's early life, I would check it ever 3,000 miles. No. 3 and 4 cylinder valves always tighten up. I check all the valves every 6,000 miles or so now.
On the air cooled engines, the intake is set at .004 and exhaust at .006. Anything tighter will burn the valves. If the gap is too small the valves will not be fully seated during warm operations. If the gap is too large, you lose some performance and hear more valve chatter.
It seems the S valve train has more thermal growth requiring the greater .008-.010 and .010-.011 clearances. But the principles are the same. To tight = burnt valves, to loose = lose of performance and increased noise.
Originally posted by PWRMKR
At just under 50,000 miles ... I have only bought two rear tires.
It seems the S valve train has more thermal growth requiring the greater .008-.010 and .010-.011 clearances. But the principles are the same. To tight = burnt valves, to loose = lose of performance and increased noise.
Are you saying that you have almost 50K miles on your ORIGINAL front S-02s?
The spec valve clearances only appear to be large due to the location that they are measured. If you measure the clearance between the cam lobe and roller rocker you will find that they are only .005" - .007".
09-17-2003, 09:09 PM
