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This is a new tool that I just bought at Sears. It's $29.99 and it's a ratchet and socket set. You can use this just like Todd Marucci's special tool for valve adjustments, but this is also a ratchet and socket set. It has quick release 1/4' and 3/8' adapters for normal sockets. The head of the ratchet is hollow as well as the sockets themselves to allow long bolts, screwdrivers, etc. to go through the ratchet/socket assembly. This is a very cool idea!
Not for a while, since I just adjusted my valves. I will use it the next time I adjust them. I see no reason that this will not work. The center of all of the sockets, extensions and the ratchet is hollow and a screwdriver fits through just fine.
If you like finely crafted equipment, then this set is for you. It's almost like fine jewelry, rather than automotive wrenches.
Thanks for the writeup! I did my valves this weekend, and everything went pretty smoothly.
Just a couple of comments....
---The valve adjusting screw thread pitch is pretty coarse. To get a really precise adjustment, you really have to land that screw to +/- 10 degrees or so of where you want it, which equates to about half of an "o'clock" measurement, or about 30 "minutes". Even if you have the tool where you can hold the adjustment screw in place while tightening the nut, there is a good chance you will throw the adjustment off slightly when you torque the nut with the torque wrench. The way I did it was the following...
1) Loosen the nut and back the adjustment screw off.
2) Put the proper feeler gauge into the gap
3) Slowly tighten the adjustment screw until you feel it contact the feeler gauge. Do not tighten the screw onto gauge, only go until there is contact.
4) Note the position of the slotted head of the adjustment screw and where it is pointing. Make a mental note, like "slightly past the 10 o'clock position, or about 10:15"
5) At this point, if you have the valve adjustment tool, tighten the nut while holding the screw in place. My guess is that even this will not give perfect results, because even a difference between the adjustment screw slot size and the flathead screwdriver head size can lead to movement of the screw when tightening the nut. If you're lucky, you can put some torque on the nut without the screw moving, but it usually didn't work for me.
6) If the screw moves from its desire position, loosen the nut just enough for the screw to be able to turn again. Turn it back about 10 degrees or so, then retighten the nut. Recheck the screw position. Keep doing this until you get the proper torque and the screw is where you made your mental note. Basically, you are backing up the adjustment screw just slightly, then torqueing the nut down and and having the adjustment screw twist into place. I was able to get pretty precise clearances that way.
7) Double-check your work by sliding in the "go" and "no-go" gauges.
---All 16 valves can be adjusted at only two position of the crank. I think the Helm's has you do it cylinder by cylinder, or at 4 separate crank position. Basically, at Top Dead Center, you can do intake on cylinder 1 and 2, and exhaust on 1 and 3. At Bottom Dead Center (180 degrees), you can do intake on 3 and 4 and exhast on 2 and 4. Basically, if the cam lobe is up, you can adjust the valve.
---Finally, STRETCH BEFORE AND AFTER YOU DO THE VALVE ADJUSTMENT! I did my valves 2 days ago and the back of my legs, my neck, and my lower back are all killing me! You really have to contort your body in a wierd way over the valve train while you do this, since you need to avoild leaning too heavily on the fender. I can tell you that my Spoon STB helped alot, since I was able to lean on it when I did the valves. STBs may not do too much to improve handling on the S, but I would suggest getting one if you plan to adjust your valves!
03-30-2003, 01:17 PM
