>> S2000 Valve Adjustment, Step-By-Step
03-23-2003, 05:13 PM
#31
Registered User
I decided to check my valve clearances, since they just didn't sound right to me and I'm glad that I did. I checked the first two cylinders and they were all too tight and out of spec. I didn't bother to check the last two cylinders, I just adjusted them anyway. They ranged from .005" to .006" on the intake and from .006" to .008" on the exhaust on the two cylinders that I checked. It sounds much better at idle than it did before the adjustment.
Does anyone know if these clearances tighten up as you add on the miles or do they loosen up? I would expect them to loosen up. I have 26,165 miles on my car.
BTW, did anyone mention that the insides of this engine look like a Swiss watch? Very cool.
Bob
Does anyone know if these clearances tighten up as you add on the miles or do they loosen up? I would expect them to loosen up. I have 26,165 miles on my car.
BTW, did anyone mention that the insides of this engine look like a Swiss watch? Very cool.
Bob
03-23-2003, 05:37 PM
#32
Originally posted by boiler
I decided to check my valve clearances, since they just didn't sound right to me and I'm glad that I did. I checked the first two cylinders and they were all too tight and out of spec. I didn't bother to check the last two cylinders, I just adjusted them anyway. They ranged from .005" to .006" on the intake and from .006" to .008" on the exhaust on the two cylinders that I checked. It sounds much better at idle than it did before the adjustment.
Does anyone know if these clearances tighten up as you add on the miles or do they loosen up? I would expect them to loosen up. I have 26,165 miles on my car.
BTW, did anyone mention that the insides of this engine look like a Swiss watch? Very cool.
Bob
I decided to check my valve clearances, since they just didn't sound right to me and I'm glad that I did. I checked the first two cylinders and they were all too tight and out of spec. I didn't bother to check the last two cylinders, I just adjusted them anyway. They ranged from .005" to .006" on the intake and from .006" to .008" on the exhaust on the two cylinders that I checked. It sounds much better at idle than it did before the adjustment.
Does anyone know if these clearances tighten up as you add on the miles or do they loosen up? I would expect them to loosen up. I have 26,165 miles on my car.
BTW, did anyone mention that the insides of this engine look like a Swiss watch? Very cool.
Bob
03-23-2003, 08:07 PM
#33
Registered User
Originally posted by gernby
Generally, the valve clearance should decrease as the engine wears, since the valves and valve seats will wear faster than the cam lobes and rockers.
Generally, the valve clearance should decrease as the engine wears, since the valves and valve seats will wear faster than the cam lobes and rockers.
Mine sounds much better and it also idles soooo smooth now.
I certainly agree with xviper, don't do this just to do it. I did this to fix a problem and it did just that. However, this isn't an easy thing to do if you are not familiar with the process. It was very frustrating to get the adjustment the way that I wanted it. This car is one of the more frustrating ones that I have worked on to get the valves adjusted precisely and not just close enough. If you haven't done this before, watch someone else. Don't practice on your car.
There is one thing that I will do the next time and that is to remove the valve cover washers and gaskets before I reinstall the valve cover. I had one of them pop off as I was installing the cover today and of course, the gasket got swallowed up by the car. I spent a lot of time recovering the special rubber gasket. Either be very careful when reinstalling the valve cover or remove them first.
One last idea: has anyone tried using a crow's foot wrench when adjusting the valves? I think that this would make this job much easier. You would be able to keep the screwdriver on the adjuster while you are torqueing the lock nut and it should be much easier.
03-23-2003, 08:52 PM
#34
Originally posted by boiler
One last idea: has anyone tried using a crow's foot wrench when adjusting the valves? I think that this would make this job much easier. You would be able to keep the screwdriver on the adjuster while you are torqueing the lock nut and it should be much easier.
One last idea: has anyone tried using a crow's foot wrench when adjusting the valves? I think that this would make this job much easier. You would be able to keep the screwdriver on the adjuster while you are torqueing the lock nut and it should be much easier.
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/showthread.php?...?threadid=88295
I bought one for my tool box in anticipation for when the day comes that I have to do mine. It's not a new idea but is a cheaper, home made version of the ones used by pit crews and sold in speed shops.
03-24-2003, 06:27 PM
#37
Originally posted by boiler
With Todd's tool (which looks pretty cool) you would still need to remove it and then torque the nut. With the crow's foot, you would tighten and torque at the same time.
With Todd's tool (which looks pretty cool) you would still need to remove it and then torque the nut. With the crow's foot, you would tighten and torque at the same time.
) The end of it stays on the lock nut while you turn or hold the adjuster screw.
03-24-2003, 07:19 PM
#39
boiler, I tend to be a bit more lackadaisical about this sort of thing. 14ft#'s is not a lot of torque and I would just learn with a torque wrench what this "feels" like and then just go with my old "mechanics feel" from there on. Did this for years on motorcycle valves. Saves a step or two.