s2000 misfire... might have a lemon
#1
s2000 misfire... might have a lemon
So i want to go burn down jiffy lube because the last time i went and got my oil changed there, a week later my A/C compressor blew. This time I got an oil change and they told me they have been putting 5w20 in my engine the past 8 months.
Anyways two days after my oil chage my CEL came on which was about 4 days ago, drove it for two days and on monday poof, there went my car. While driving about 40mph the oil symbol started blinking in my dash and the CEL light was solid. When i pressed on the gas it sounded like metal on metal clinking. I rode in neutral because it wouldnt make a rattle. But then my car stalled and i was stuck. I had to get the car towed to my house because it wouldnt start. I borrowed an obdII reader and got 6 dreaded codes.
p1399
p0300
p0301
p0302
p0303
p0304
So incase you are unaware these are all misfire codes for all 4 cylinders then a general random misfire code and 1399 said honda ignition misfire system code.
My car will not start, when i turn the key and press the start button, the pullies all spin, but the car won;t turn over. I have new spark plugs no help, coils are good too... now i'm stuck. A guy that worked for honda told me i most likely broke a piston rod and maybe a head or retainer and that i would probably need a new engine.
Jez I hope this isnt the case. The car is sitting in my driveway I dont have much to spend to fix it, but i have a bomb insurance package and may wreck my car if all else fails.
All advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Nick
P.S.
the only mod I have is an injen CAI but it has been installed for a month or so and has been running great, the idle actually smoothed out with the CAI.
Anyways two days after my oil chage my CEL came on which was about 4 days ago, drove it for two days and on monday poof, there went my car. While driving about 40mph the oil symbol started blinking in my dash and the CEL light was solid. When i pressed on the gas it sounded like metal on metal clinking. I rode in neutral because it wouldnt make a rattle. But then my car stalled and i was stuck. I had to get the car towed to my house because it wouldnt start. I borrowed an obdII reader and got 6 dreaded codes.
p1399
p0300
p0301
p0302
p0303
p0304
So incase you are unaware these are all misfire codes for all 4 cylinders then a general random misfire code and 1399 said honda ignition misfire system code.
My car will not start, when i turn the key and press the start button, the pullies all spin, but the car won;t turn over. I have new spark plugs no help, coils are good too... now i'm stuck. A guy that worked for honda told me i most likely broke a piston rod and maybe a head or retainer and that i would probably need a new engine.
Jez I hope this isnt the case. The car is sitting in my driveway I dont have much to spend to fix it, but i have a bomb insurance package and may wreck my car if all else fails.
All advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Nick
P.S.
the only mod I have is an injen CAI but it has been installed for a month or so and has been running great, the idle actually smoothed out with the CAI.
#5
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Location: LaVista, NE
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why would anyone still go to jiffy lube when theres those video investigations where sometimes they do crappy work or no work at all and still charge you...
but yea might as well part it out. i would open it up and see what damage was done.
but yea might as well part it out. i would open it up and see what damage was done.
#6
Moderator
That oil did not destroy the engine. It is barely different the 10w-30. And it definitely did not hurt the AC compressor. And i have no idea where lemon laws come into play here.
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#8
Originally Posted by Nmatthews2000,Sep 2 2009, 06:44 AM
While all your responses are entertaining, does anyone have any mechanical advice?
You very well could need an entirely new engine. But nobody can help you further until you pull the head and find out if you need a new head or a new engine.
Used engine = ~$2500
Install = ~$1500
#9
By the way, I wouldn't commit insurance fraud.
If they find out, you're going to jail. Not worth it.
And with a non-running car, it'll be hard to imagine a scenario where you'd be able to generate enough speed to total it. And when the adjuster comes out to look at it and notices that the engine is fubar'd, you're in a crapload of trouble.
Imagine that they "total it out" and someone picks it up for parts. They think they have a good engine and they pull it. They open it up and it's fubar'd. They get mad because they bought crap and contact the insurance company to come look. They launch an investigation and find that there is no way you drove the car to total it with a blown engine.
DON'T DO IT.
Take your lumps. Owning a used sports car comes with certain liabilities. It's not a Camry. You can't have it both ways.
Part the car out and drive something economical for a few years while you save up for something with a warranty.
If they find out, you're going to jail. Not worth it.
And with a non-running car, it'll be hard to imagine a scenario where you'd be able to generate enough speed to total it. And when the adjuster comes out to look at it and notices that the engine is fubar'd, you're in a crapload of trouble.
Imagine that they "total it out" and someone picks it up for parts. They think they have a good engine and they pull it. They open it up and it's fubar'd. They get mad because they bought crap and contact the insurance company to come look. They launch an investigation and find that there is no way you drove the car to total it with a blown engine.
DON'T DO IT.
Take your lumps. Owning a used sports car comes with certain liabilities. It's not a Camry. You can't have it both ways.
Part the car out and drive something economical for a few years while you save up for something with a warranty.