S2000 Engine won’t start - Good battery
11-27-2018, 09:50 AM
#11
The headlights should dim significantly or extinguish completely when the starter is engaged. If all those lights stay working there's no current going to the starter.
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
11-27-2018, 10:02 AM
#12
Thread Starter
11-27-2018, 10:13 AM
#13
Thank you @Chuck S , that confirms what i was thinking as well. So since I've checked the Clutch Interlock Switch, the next location to check would be the starter solenoid? Service manual says to run a cable directly from the battery positive terminal to the solenoid post where the blk/wht wire is connected and the starter should engage. My concern with this is needing to remove the cable soon as the starter engages and engine starts so that it doesnt do any damage to the flywheel or starter. is this a thing or am i overly concerned?
11-27-2018, 10:24 AM
#14
You guys all rock, really appreciate the constant info.
***Important Fact, the battery is 3 months old. previous battery had a bad cell and was replaced. This is my weekend car and its driven once or more a month.
Say Chi Sin Lo's long story about how a "good checked battery" really wasnt good and that buying a new battery solved his problem.
Beings that AutoZone checked it, I decided to check it myself. I disconnected the positve connection and I connected my trickle charge battery charger. it ran for 3 days until charge was complete. this is surely a sign that the battery was low even though i was told it was not.
Reconnected battery and same thing, start engine button does nothing, car doesnt make a sound. i turned on A/C, radio, Headlights, brake lights and tried again, and still nothing.
I'm going to buy a battery load tester on my way home from work and check the batter on my own and reply back.
***Important Fact, the battery is 3 months old. previous battery had a bad cell and was replaced. This is my weekend car and its driven once or more a month.
Say Chi Sin Lo's long story about how a "good checked battery" really wasnt good and that buying a new battery solved his problem.
Beings that AutoZone checked it, I decided to check it myself. I disconnected the positve connection and I connected my trickle charge battery charger. it ran for 3 days until charge was complete. this is surely a sign that the battery was low even though i was told it was not.
Reconnected battery and same thing, start engine button does nothing, car doesnt make a sound. i turned on A/C, radio, Headlights, brake lights and tried again, and still nothing.
I'm going to buy a battery load tester on my way home from work and check the batter on my own and reply back.
Note the gatling gun/machine gun like sound upon trying to start it. As soon as I heard that, I immediately asked my tow truck to try to jump it with its own dedicated jumper battery. Car started right up. Went and got a new battery
Also, here's a more general video:
11-27-2018, 10:47 AM
#15
We're trying to crank the engine. Pull the fuel pump fuse before running that wire which, according to page 21 of the electrical manual (link here somewhere) by-passes the starter solenoid (by a back door). Since you bypassed the clutch safety switch be sure you're out of gear and the parking brake is set. You don't need to bolt both these connections. Just bolt the wire to the solenoid so you can get out from under the car and press the other end to the battery positive (+) terminal. Or you may be able to use one lead from a set of jumper cables rather than bolt anything. Connect there first, not at the battery.
-- Chuck
-- Chuck
The following users liked this post:
billiardboy904 (11-27-2018)
11-28-2018, 12:17 PM
#16
As for the flickering lights, its not difficult to replace the rectifier. There is a good diy on it.
Basically its:
Remove alternator
Disassble alternator via a couple of screws
Remove rectifier
Install new rectifier (got mine aftermarket, very inexpensive)
Reassemble
Consider replacing the brushes at same time.
All the needed parts are listed in the diy.
Getting alternator off and back are the most time consuming and difficult parts of the process.
Basically its:
Remove alternator
Disassble alternator via a couple of screws
Remove rectifier
Install new rectifier (got mine aftermarket, very inexpensive)
Reassemble
Consider replacing the brushes at same time.
All the needed parts are listed in the diy.
Getting alternator off and back are the most time consuming and difficult parts of the process.
11-28-2018, 12:41 PM
#17
Thread Starter
Thanks for the quick tip @Car Analogy, I'll do some additional research and weigh the cost versus living with it. If i had known that 6 years ago, I'd have done it in a heartbeat. Now that i've gotten used to it and its no longer my daily driver, i'm able to overlook it.
12-10-2018, 08:17 PM
#18
Thread Starter
Ok, so I borrowed a Battery Load tester and a Snap-on Remote Starter.
Battery tested good with load tester and registered 660 CCA under load. I then ran the remote starter from the power cable on the starter to the positive terminal. I put the keys in the ignition in the ON position. When I press the button, the starter gear spins every time. This tells me it’s drawing power (also notible by visibly seeing headlights dim). But the engine does not turn over.
Checked start engine button again and it does absolutely nothing when pressed.
Bad starter? I’m lost here. Thinking I can try having my friend hit the starter with a hammer while I press the bottom but I don’t want him under the car.
Battery tested good with load tester and registered 660 CCA under load. I then ran the remote starter from the power cable on the starter to the positive terminal. I put the keys in the ignition in the ON position. When I press the button, the starter gear spins every time. This tells me it’s drawing power (also notible by visibly seeing headlights dim). But the engine does not turn over.
Checked start engine button again and it does absolutely nothing when pressed.
Bad starter? I’m lost here. Thinking I can try having my friend hit the starter with a hammer while I press the bottom but I don’t want him under the car.
12-16-2018, 05:29 PM
#19
Thread Starter
Latest Update
New Denso Starter installed today. I checked it with a remote starter connected to my battery before installing and it tested good.
Engine still will not turn over. Same symptoms as before, nothing when pressing start engine button. My Neighbor whos a mechanic said its definitely electrical and said to check the ignition system, even bypass the start engine button to rule it out.
Time to investigate more.
New Denso Starter installed today. I checked it with a remote starter connected to my battery before installing and it tested good.
Engine still will not turn over. Same symptoms as before, nothing when pressing start engine button. My Neighbor whos a mechanic said its definitely electrical and said to check the ignition system, even bypass the start engine button to rule it out.
Time to investigate more.
12-16-2018, 06:38 PM
#20
Thread Starter
SOLVED - Can I get an Admin to update the Title to Solved please.
YES! Found this diagram online which told me there were not 1, but 2 clutch lockout switches...
While looking under the dash, you can see the Brake Pedal Switch, and Clutch Pedal Switch B. You cannot see Clutch Pedal switch A, nor did i know it existed.
Found this diagram someone posted on Reddit.
The red arrow points to a rubber stopper that does not exist.
I somehow managed to get fully under the footwell with both arms. With my left arm, I used a 7mm alen wrench and poked it through the open hole where the rubber stopper was missing and pressed the switch. with my right arm i pressed in the pedal slightly to engage clutch switch b. I had my wife press the start engine button and Boom, what a glorious sound after a very long weekend of wrench turning. least now i have a new starter haha.
YES! Found this diagram online which told me there were not 1, but 2 clutch lockout switches...
While looking under the dash, you can see the Brake Pedal Switch, and Clutch Pedal Switch B. You cannot see Clutch Pedal switch A, nor did i know it existed.
Found this diagram someone posted on Reddit.
The red arrow points to a rubber stopper that does not exist.
I somehow managed to get fully under the footwell with both arms. With my left arm, I used a 7mm alen wrench and poked it through the open hole where the rubber stopper was missing and pressed the switch. with my right arm i pressed in the pedal slightly to engage clutch switch b. I had my wife press the start engine button and Boom, what a glorious sound after a very long weekend of wrench turning. least now i have a new starter haha.
Last edited by billiardboy904; 12-16-2018 at 06:44 PM. Reason: Solved
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Glen Ahlert (08-09-2019)