RPMS go below 1K (Normal???)
#22
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map sensor is right where the intake hose meets the throttle body. It's a little black thing and will say Denso Map or something on it.
I think both things helped. Give it a try... it won't hurt the extra effort to reset the ECU. Just undo the negative terminal cable from the battery for 30 seconds or so.
If you have an aftermarket alarm lookout! My siren is located right near the battery and it scared the SH1T out of me when I put the cable back on. I let go of the cable and jumped back
I think both things helped. Give it a try... it won't hurt the extra effort to reset the ECU. Just undo the negative terminal cable from the battery for 30 seconds or so.
If you have an aftermarket alarm lookout! My siren is located right near the battery and it scared the SH1T out of me when I put the cable back on. I let go of the cable and jumped back
#23
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Chitah831
map sensor is right where the intake hose meets the throttle body. It's a little black thing and will say Denso Map or something on it.
I think both things helped. Give it a try... it won't hurt the extra effort to reset the ECU. Just undo the negative terminal cable from the battery for 30 seconds or so.
map sensor is right where the intake hose meets the throttle body. It's a little black thing and will say Denso Map or something on it.
I think both things helped. Give it a try... it won't hurt the extra effort to reset the ECU. Just undo the negative terminal cable from the battery for 30 seconds or so.
#24
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Originally posted by Chitah831
I adjusted my throttle cable to cut the slack in it about 2-3 months ago.
I adjusted my throttle cable to cut the slack in it about 2-3 months ago.
Also, this is not advisable to do in any case since you will be putting extra strain on the throttle cable under full-throttle conditions. This may lead to premature throttle cable failure. The slack is supposed to be there and all you do by removing it is to cause throttle tip-in to be earlier in the travel of the accelerator pedal.
Have someone sit in the car and depress the accelerator while watching the throttle cable. You'll notice that without any free play, the cable becomes very tight and you may not even be able to push the pedal to the floor. It is better to adjust the cable so that the throttle is completely open only when the accelerator pedal is fully depressed. This will likely result in some initial free-play in the cable, but you will not put undue strain on it.
#25
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Before and after i SC my S, my idle will drop below 600rpm and feels like it will die and go back up. Especially in hot days. The worst case will be in netural, step on the gas and then back off, you will feel the car really want to die. With the ac on, eveythig is fine. So, i think it is normal.
#26
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Originally posted by JohnChan
Before and after i SC my S, my idle will drop below 600rpm and feels like it will die and go back up. Especially in hot days. The worst case will be in netural, step on the gas and then back off, you will feel the car really want to die. With the ac on, eveythig is fine. So, i think it is normal.
Before and after i SC my S, my idle will drop below 600rpm and feels like it will die and go back up. Especially in hot days. The worst case will be in netural, step on the gas and then back off, you will feel the car really want to die. With the ac on, eveythig is fine. So, i think it is normal.
#27
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Same for me. But mine idled so bad it actually stalled sometimes.
My backup fuse is out, so it certainly has nothing to do with resetting the ECU since mine resets every time.
After whacking and then cleaning the sensors, that helped.
My backup fuse is out, so it certainly has nothing to do with resetting the ECU since mine resets every time.
After whacking and then cleaning the sensors, that helped.
#30
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Many 2003 SVT Cobras had what is called "the stall" - the engine would drop to 500 RPM or so when t5he clutch was dumped or when crusing up to a slow stop in neutral. Sometimes the car would catch and settle into idle, sometimes it would not and would die. In a 3665 pound (curb weight), nose heavy car, this was scary, and dangerous for the "upper arm power" challenged - my wife is petite and when it happened to her, she almost hit a curb, and vowed never to drive the car again. She has not.
There were many theories, many attempted fixes.
1) Some blamed the orientation of the MAF sensor with afytermarket air filters
2) Some blamed intake plumbing changes (from styraight to 90 degree bends, causing turbulence)
etc.
Finally, Ford worked out a re-calbiration of the PCM that worked, but the cost of re-certifying delayed its rollout. More than 1 guy sold the car, and i know of one crash blamned on it. Many NHTSA complaints.
My guess is that the aftermarket changes cause a sudden change in sensor reads that the ECM cannot adjust to fast enough, or gets confused because it is not programmed to deal with that condition.
Good luck.
There were many theories, many attempted fixes.
1) Some blamed the orientation of the MAF sensor with afytermarket air filters
2) Some blamed intake plumbing changes (from styraight to 90 degree bends, causing turbulence)
etc.
Finally, Ford worked out a re-calbiration of the PCM that worked, but the cost of re-certifying delayed its rollout. More than 1 guy sold the car, and i know of one crash blamned on it. Many NHTSA complaints.
My guess is that the aftermarket changes cause a sudden change in sensor reads that the ECM cannot adjust to fast enough, or gets confused because it is not programmed to deal with that condition.
Good luck.