J-rod

So here is what happens:

I'll be driving along, pull up to a stoplight, put the car in neutral, and the RPMS will drop below 1k, and the car will idle roughly. Occasionally the RPMS will get back up to 1k, other times the car will stall.

If i turn the car off, and then restart it, it will idle at 1k just fine, and will not return until I drive some more.

This doesn't happen every time I drive it, but almost every time.

I just replaced the MAP sensor a couple of weeks ago, and that hasn't helped anything.

So what's up with my car? Do I need an new idle air controller? Where would I find one?

This car is my daily, so any help would be greatly appreciated!!

THANKS!!!!

J-rod

Update . . . gonna try cleaning the IAC later today, reset the ECU, and see if that helps

hustle_kaing

Same thing kinda happened to me too, I put new spark plugs, cleaned IAC valve, cleaned MAP sensor and cleaned the PCV valve. I noticed the most difference after I replaced the spark plugs, new spark plugs got rid off hesitation and stalling and cleaning the IAC valve got rid of the idle issues, before it used to idle at 600 to 800 and sometimes it would drop a little lower and now after I cleaned the IAC valve it idles at 800 to 1000. Also clean the throttle body, a lot of carbon build up there, spray some brake cleaner into the little duct/hole where the MAP sensor goes since it can also get clogged, and lastly read, read and read some more threads, that what I did every day after work for a week, oh and also clean a part first before you buy a new one next time, maybe your MAP sensor did not need replacement. Good luck!

sahtt

Are you getting spark in all 4 cylinders when this occurring? Could just be a loose plug or loose connection to a plug. Most people "fix" these issues by replacing plugs etc. when in many cases one of the replaced parts worked fine but was loose.

J-rod

That's what the inside of the IAC looked like, so I cleaned it out with some CRC, and gave the S an oil change(not to fix the problem, it was just due for one) and the problem seems to be gone.

I'll know after a few more days of driving around. Next will be to check all the plugs if it returns.

And the original MAP sensor had about 97k miles on it, so throwing down $50 for a new one wasn't that big of a deal

J-rod

problem is still there, i'm gonna check the spark plugs and clean the throttle body next and see what happens . . . ugh

21k

dont forget to check the gap in the plugs.

arkkornkid

Check your throttle body too. See if the butterfly is gunked/gummed up.

SUPERAnimal

check your map voltage with a scan tool that has a datalist. When the vehicle is warm the voltage should be under 1 volt. It should be arount .8-.9volts. If its at 1 or more then its time to adjust your valves. Your symptoms can sometimes be caused by tight valves.

J-rod

So, I put in new spark plugs today,here is a picture of what the plugs looked like, and what the plug wells looked like too

there was some oil on the second plug from the front, but it was on the top nut of the plug, the spark tip itself was completely dry . . . so I'm thinking maybe leaky valve cover gasket?



got the battery disconnected now, so I'll let the ECU reset, and see if that makes a difference