Royal Purple Synchromax Transmission Fluid
#21
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NEO is a full diester based oil. The base stocks are available in about 5 grades of quality. NEO uses the highest. Amsoil used to be a mid range diester product, and a good one, but got into financial troubles in the 80's. I was a dealer at that time. Then we noticed the motor oil looked different, and we did a freeze test. Real simply, put in a beaker and put in a freezer and then pour when cold to see how much it thickened. Not real scientific, but great tactile feedback. Some old stock was way different from the new. Had it checked at the sampling lab and discovered that they had changed to a synthetic hydrocarbon. This is a much less expensive base stock, and at the same time, the price dropped.
Well, economics ruled the day, and almost caused the demise of the company. Some of the other brands are blends of diesters and hydrocarbons to keep the price in check. I do not know what Royal Purple uses. In truth, any of them are better than the petroleum oils. Now as far as motor oils, I'll start with a caveat. NEO 0W-5, which I and my customers use exclusively, says "for racing purposes only" right on the bottle. There was no zero weight classification at the time this oil was developed. And the cost to certify a weight is about $50,000. This is too much for a small company to absorb, considering potential sales. However, because it is used in engines raced harder than ours, the additive package is superior, and it is their best oil. It is very hard to absorb the fact that thinner oils work better, but it is true. If abuse bothers you, consider this; I run it in a 454 GMC running 5 lbs of boost from a Whipple supercharger. We tow 16,000 pounds daily with this truck up and down hills with as much as 15% grades, and in FWD low, as much at 24%. I just passed 100,000 miles. We change the oil at 25,000 mile intervals, probably because the guys are too lazy. Obviously, that truck runs hot, way too hot, a lot. Still, I add a quart about every 6-7000 miles. On our other vehicles like our diesels, most of which say 100 hour change intervals, we go 600-800 hours. Oil sampling has always been within acceptable guidelines, but high silica from the dirty air, and some thickening from deposits usually is why we change it. If you want to see clean engines, I can show them to you. The valve trains look like they've been washed with carb cleaner. The 0w-5 improves gas mileage, makes cold cranking a breeze, and lengthens change intervals. You may like to change oil, but I don't. I've got customers with more stories; some are so amazing it does sound like hype. I'm not pushing product; I'm not a sponsor yet, but I know a good thing that has worked for me. And, I have not had, nor do I know anyone who has had , a lubrication related failure. Hope this helps. If you have a specific application question I'll try to answer it. As for urine additives, since diesters are a combination of alcohols and aldehydes, some of you can get to work on the first part!
Well, economics ruled the day, and almost caused the demise of the company. Some of the other brands are blends of diesters and hydrocarbons to keep the price in check. I do not know what Royal Purple uses. In truth, any of them are better than the petroleum oils. Now as far as motor oils, I'll start with a caveat. NEO 0W-5, which I and my customers use exclusively, says "for racing purposes only" right on the bottle. There was no zero weight classification at the time this oil was developed. And the cost to certify a weight is about $50,000. This is too much for a small company to absorb, considering potential sales. However, because it is used in engines raced harder than ours, the additive package is superior, and it is their best oil. It is very hard to absorb the fact that thinner oils work better, but it is true. If abuse bothers you, consider this; I run it in a 454 GMC running 5 lbs of boost from a Whipple supercharger. We tow 16,000 pounds daily with this truck up and down hills with as much as 15% grades, and in FWD low, as much at 24%. I just passed 100,000 miles. We change the oil at 25,000 mile intervals, probably because the guys are too lazy. Obviously, that truck runs hot, way too hot, a lot. Still, I add a quart about every 6-7000 miles. On our other vehicles like our diesels, most of which say 100 hour change intervals, we go 600-800 hours. Oil sampling has always been within acceptable guidelines, but high silica from the dirty air, and some thickening from deposits usually is why we change it. If you want to see clean engines, I can show them to you. The valve trains look like they've been washed with carb cleaner. The 0w-5 improves gas mileage, makes cold cranking a breeze, and lengthens change intervals. You may like to change oil, but I don't. I've got customers with more stories; some are so amazing it does sound like hype. I'm not pushing product; I'm not a sponsor yet, but I know a good thing that has worked for me. And, I have not had, nor do I know anyone who has had , a lubrication related failure. Hope this helps. If you have a specific application question I'll try to answer it. As for urine additives, since diesters are a combination of alcohols and aldehydes, some of you can get to work on the first part!
#22
[QUOTE]Originally posted by pfb
[B]The wild card with the S2000 is that other synthetics, like Redline MTL and MT-90 work great in other vehicles, but don't perform oustandingly in ours.
[B]The wild card with the S2000 is that other synthetics, like Redline MTL and MT-90 work great in other vehicles, but don't perform oustandingly in ours.
#23
I will give this NEO MTF a try. Sounds promising. I have had good success with RL MTL stuff.
I'm quite leary about the motor oil. In my experience the F20C is very picky with the viscosity of the oil, in terms of VTEC engagement. I've notice varying and noticeable differences in the way VTEC engages after an oil change. Dino juice seems to work well as well as Castrol Syntec. However the older formulation of Mobil 1 (haven't tried the newer tri-something) somehow is lack-luster. However, after so many miles after the oil change there is no difference in VTEC engagement with the different oils.
What is your experience with the 0-5w oil in the S?
Do you sell the NEO 610 brake fluid? I've heard and read a lot of good things about that product.
I'm quite leary about the motor oil. In my experience the F20C is very picky with the viscosity of the oil, in terms of VTEC engagement. I've notice varying and noticeable differences in the way VTEC engages after an oil change. Dino juice seems to work well as well as Castrol Syntec. However the older formulation of Mobil 1 (haven't tried the newer tri-something) somehow is lack-luster. However, after so many miles after the oil change there is no difference in VTEC engagement with the different oils.
What is your experience with the 0-5w oil in the S?
Do you sell the NEO 610 brake fluid? I've heard and read a lot of good things about that product.
#24
Originally posted by BBSpoon
I've notice varying and noticeable differences in the way VTEC engages after an oil change.
I've notice varying and noticeable differences in the way VTEC engages after an oil change.
#27
Originally posted by mynameisneo
Not really. For VTEC to engage, the car enging must be operating within certain conditions - such as oil pressure being within a particular range. If it's not within that range - which can happen if you're not running the correct oil or a lack of oil, VTEC may not engage.
Not really. For VTEC to engage, the car enging must be operating within certain conditions - such as oil pressure being within a particular range. If it's not within that range - which can happen if you're not running the correct oil or a lack of oil, VTEC may not engage.
#29
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BBspoon. Yes I sell the brake fluid. If you've read the NEO website, you know the difference. I really wonder if you drive the car that hard, but racers use a lot of the stuff. We use it in the tow truck because I don't want to see my trailer in the side window!