S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Rounded diff drain bolt. Any tips for removal?

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Old 11-23-2015, 05:55 PM
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Another tip to prevent rounding bolts when removing is to smack the wrench with the palm of your hand, rather then trying to pull/push on it with weight.
Old 11-23-2015, 06:01 PM
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Or use a big enough wrench, why make the job difficult on yourself.

If all else fails, there's always those cheap ass grip tite sockets, they'll destroy the bolt but u'll get it out.
Old 11-23-2015, 06:18 PM
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Vise-grip clamped onto rounded bolt sometimes works, too.
Old 11-24-2015, 11:14 AM
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Irwin bolt grips works wonders. Saved my tail plenty of times.

http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bol...-grip-base-set
Old 11-27-2015, 09:35 AM
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So, I finally got it off. Got a 15\16 six point socket as billman suggested, but it kept sliding off the bolt. Trying to hold the socket in place with one hand wasn't giving me the power I needed. So I took my floor jack and jacked it up to hold the ratchet in place. Almost to the point where it was lifting the car up. I was able to wail on this thing and after a few kickbacks, it finally broke loose. Waiting on a new drain bolt to come in and it'll be good. Thanks for your help, as always,Guys

Edit: is there anything I can do to prevent the new bolt from getting stuck like this the next time I go to change the fluid?
Old 11-27-2015, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by redwing497
is there anything I can do to prevent the new bolt from getting stuck like this the next time I go to change the fluid?
Yeah, don't crank down on it. There's no pressure behind it so it doesn't need to be super tight.
Old 11-27-2015, 10:27 AM
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Its easier when the engine is close to temperature.
Old 11-29-2015, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by redwing497
Is there anything I can do to prevent the new bolt from getting stuck like this the next time I go to change the fluid?
This is what I do... Clean the contact surface of the diff with emery cloth or steel wool --- to get rid of any oxidation and goombas leftover from the last removal. Apply thin coat of lube (like moly grease) onto this surface, the surfaces of the washer, and contact face & threads of bolt. Then, torque the bolt to proper tightness. The lube helps to keep the parts from seizing up on each other (due to long term hot-cold cycling and electrolysis between the different metals).
Old 12-05-2015, 11:06 PM
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The 15/16 socket was a great suggestion!

Make sure you put on new crush washers and only torque to 33 ft-lbs

https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/348...-fluid-change/
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