Rough Start After Car Sits for a Few Days
10-21-2013, 11:47 AM
#21
Thread Starter
It does go into cold idle mode, I can't remember the rpms but yeah up there in that range. The air pump does work as normal. I can start it up today just fine after running it yesterday, but if it sits for longer periods of time, then it gets moody.
10-21-2013, 12:05 PM
#22
Sounds a leaky injector. My buddy had the same problem, his would crank 5-6 times before it would start. It would only happen if the car was off for about half a day or more. After the firs start it would start normally after that. I think all 4 of his injectors were leaking. After we swapped in some good used injectors the problem went away.
10-21-2013, 01:43 PM
#23
Thread Starter
Sounds a leaky injector. My buddy had the same problem, his would crank 5-6 times before it would start. It would only happen if the car was off for about half a day or more. After the firs start it would start normally after that. I think all 4 of his injectors were leaking. After we swapped in some good used injectors the problem went away.
10-21-2013, 09:15 PM
#24
Originally Posted by s2000maniac' timestamp='1382385908' post='22838931
Sounds a leaky injector. My buddy had the same problem, his would crank 5-6 times before it would start. It would only happen if the car was off for about half a day or more. After the firs start it would start normally after that. I think all 4 of his injectors were leaking. After we swapped in some good used injectors the problem went away.
10-26-2013, 07:15 AM
#25
Thread Starter
I can get the car to fire up perfectly/quickly if I crack open the throttle by pressing the accelerator pedal during start-up, no issues if I do that. The car fired up perfectly last night after sitting for 7 days and with me opening the throttle. I might just do that when the car has sat for an extended period of time.
10-26-2013, 07:29 AM
#26
I caution you in doing that as that messes with the cars ECU. If the car is not starting easily on it's own without the use of the accelerator then there is a fault somewhere in the system. Have you checked your fuel pressure regulator to make sure the diaphragm isn't leaking ever so slightly? You can pull the vacuum line off the top of it and try starting the car. If liquid fuel makes its way out then you know that part has failed. The other idea would still be an injector that's leaking ever so slightly draining the fuel rail into one or multiple cylinders making it harder to start. You could pull your injectors and send them off to be professionally cleaned and tested to be sure. It's only around 15-20$ per injector and they'll give you flow sheets to show you performance of your injectors. Might not be a bad idea with the level of milage you have on them. 
10-26-2013, 07:39 AM
#27
Thread Starter
I caution you in doing that as that messes with the cars ECU. If the car is not starting easily on it's own without the use of the accelerator then there is a fault somewhere in the system. Have you checked your fuel pressure regulator to make sure the diaphragm isn't leaking ever so slightly? You can pull the vacuum line off the top of it and try starting the car. If liquid fuel makes its way out then you know that part has failed. The other idea would still be an injector that's leaking ever so slightly draining the fuel rail into one or multiple cylinders making it harder to start. You could pull your injectors and send them off to be professionally cleaned and tested to be sure. It's only around 15-20$ per injector and they'll give you flow sheets to show you performance of your injectors. Might not be a bad idea with the level of milage you have on them.
10-26-2013, 08:03 AM
#28
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From service manual:
Check if there is play between the throttle stop screw (*) and the throttle lever at fully closed position.
If there is you need to replace the throttle body.
(*) you should not adjust the stop as it is set at the factroy according to the manual.
Maybe that has to do with the zero of the TPS & ECU, I donno.
I would be very tempted to adjust it too see if that changes start-up behavior.
IF it starts like it should with just the slightest throttle input at starting.
Use at your own risk!
Check if there is play between the throttle stop screw (*) and the throttle lever at fully closed position.
If there is you need to replace the throttle body.
(*) you should not adjust the stop as it is set at the factroy according to the manual.
Maybe that has to do with the zero of the TPS & ECU, I donno.
I would be very tempted to adjust it too see if that changes start-up behavior.
IF it starts like it should with just the slightest throttle input at starting.
Use at your own risk!
10-26-2013, 08:21 AM
#29
Thread Starter
From service manual:
Check if there is play between the throttle stop screw (*) and the throttle lever at fully closed position.
If there is you need to replace the throttle body.
(*) you should not adjust the stop as it is set at the factroy according to the manual.
Maybe that has to do with the zero of the TPS & ECU, I donno.
I would be very tempted to adjust it too see if that changes start-up behavior.
IF it starts like it should with just the slightest throttle input at starting.
Use at your own risk!
Check if there is play between the throttle stop screw (*) and the throttle lever at fully closed position.
If there is you need to replace the throttle body.
(*) you should not adjust the stop as it is set at the factroy according to the manual.
Maybe that has to do with the zero of the TPS & ECU, I donno.
I would be very tempted to adjust it too see if that changes start-up behavior.
IF it starts like it should with just the slightest throttle input at starting.
Use at your own risk!
Thanks for the tip SpitfireS, I'll check my TPS reading at closed throttle and check the TB in general, I've played with that throttle stop screw before on this car and other Hondas as I've run larger bore throttle bodies. I have a J's Racing TB on my S2000 that I've run for two years, but this issue only started this year.