Rough Start After Car Sits for a Few Days
#11
I have noticed that the engine will fire up quicker if I give it some throttle during the crank sequence, easy enough to do but I've never had to do that in the past.
Too many new or clean parts on the car to isolate it to one thing. Starting the car within a 24 hour period is perfectly fine, it only exhibits the odd behaviour after 2+ days of sitting.
Too many new or clean parts on the car to isolate it to one thing. Starting the car within a 24 hour period is perfectly fine, it only exhibits the odd behaviour after 2+ days of sitting.
#12
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Could be a leaky fuel injector that's dripping fuel while the engine is off. To test, pull the fuel rail with the injectors still attached, turn the key to on so that the pump primes, then see if any of the injectors leak. You can put tissue under them to make it easier to spot.
#13
Thread Starter
Could be a leaky fuel injector that's dripping fuel while the engine is off. To test, pull the fuel rail with the injectors still attached, turn the key to on so that the pump primes, then see if any of the injectors leak. You can put tissue under them to make it easier to spot.
#14
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What battery voltage do you see after those few days - before starting?
Is there a difference between no key and key in & ready to start?
What voltage do you see during starting? (not easy to measure with (cheap) digital multimeters as they are slow)
What voltage do you see with the engine running?
Do you have power where you store the car?
You could use a trickle charger on the battery and see if that makes a difference.
Is there a difference between no key and key in & ready to start?
What voltage do you see during starting? (not easy to measure with (cheap) digital multimeters as they are slow)
What voltage do you see with the engine running?
Do you have power where you store the car?
You could use a trickle charger on the battery and see if that makes a difference.
#15
Thread Starter
What battery voltage do you see after those few days - before starting?
Is there a difference between no key and key in & ready to start?
What voltage do you see during starting? (not easy to measure with (cheap) digital multimeters as they are slow)
What voltage do you see with the engine running?
Do you have power where you store the car?
You could use a trickle charger on the battery and see if that makes a difference.
Is there a difference between no key and key in & ready to start?
What voltage do you see during starting? (not easy to measure with (cheap) digital multimeters as they are slow)
What voltage do you see with the engine running?
Do you have power where you store the car?
You could use a trickle charger on the battery and see if that makes a difference.
#16
I've had this on certain brands of fuel ( shell). I found using BP or Caltex's highest octane ( 98 in australia) started much better.
I also use Elf 102 octane race fuel and this starts and runs very well.
Its a race car, I practice on pump fuel, then switchover to Elf for qualifying/racing. Its worth around 400rpm top speed on our fastest race circuit.
I also use Elf 102 octane race fuel and this starts and runs very well.
Its a race car, I practice on pump fuel, then switchover to Elf for qualifying/racing. Its worth around 400rpm top speed on our fastest race circuit.
#17
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS' timestamp='1382254434' post='22836598
What battery voltage do you see after those few days - before starting?
Is there a difference between no key and key in & ready to start?
What voltage do you see during starting? (not easy to measure with (cheap) digital multimeters as they are slow)
What voltage do you see with the engine running?
Do you have power where you store the car?
You could use a trickle charger on the battery and see if that makes a difference.
Is there a difference between no key and key in & ready to start?
What voltage do you see during starting? (not easy to measure with (cheap) digital multimeters as they are slow)
What voltage do you see with the engine running?
Do you have power where you store the car?
You could use a trickle charger on the battery and see if that makes a difference.
#18
Thread Starter
I've had this on certain brands of fuel ( shell). I found using BP or Caltex's highest octane ( 98 in australia) started much better.
I also use Elf 102 octane race fuel and this starts and runs very well.
Its a race car, I practice on pump fuel, then switchover to Elf for qualifying/racing. Its worth around 400rpm top speed on our fastest race circuit.
I also use Elf 102 octane race fuel and this starts and runs very well.
Its a race car, I practice on pump fuel, then switchover to Elf for qualifying/racing. Its worth around 400rpm top speed on our fastest race circuit.
#19
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by JFUSION' timestamp='1382311827' post='22837263
[quote name='SpitfireS' timestamp='1382254434' post='22836598']
What battery voltage do you see after those few days - before starting?
Is there a difference between no key and key in & ready to start?
What voltage do you see during starting? (not easy to measure with (cheap) digital multimeters as they are slow)
What voltage do you see with the engine running?
Do you have power where you store the car?
You could use a trickle charger on the battery and see if that makes a difference.
What battery voltage do you see after those few days - before starting?
Is there a difference between no key and key in & ready to start?
What voltage do you see during starting? (not easy to measure with (cheap) digital multimeters as they are slow)
What voltage do you see with the engine running?
Do you have power where you store the car?
You could use a trickle charger on the battery and see if that makes a difference.
[/quote]
Oh yeah that makes sense , I forgot about the leakage from the prior shutdown, that could do it was well. Thanks for the tip I will try that out next and then I might pull the fuel rail too. Thanks