rough idle with check engine light
#11
Registered User
funny, quite funny I was about to do a 'post message' the other day with the bent valve problem because I was worried that you'd be driving it with bent vavles. I had it all written out. I just decided at the last second not to post it because I didn't want to worry you. Its exactly what I've experienced with another S2k (not mine, and I wasn't driving) but the same symptoms. He drove it home and had it flatbedded to the dealership. Its caused by over-reving misshifts most likely. But I didn't hear any of that from you. But unfortunatley that's what its been caused by, or so I presume.
I hope you get it fixed and back on the road soon!
I hope you get it fixed and back on the road soon!
#12
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I mis-shifted last night. I immediately put the clutch back in and reshifted. The check engine light did not come on, and I thought That no damage was done. However, when I came to a stop light, the engine was idling rough and the check engine light was flashing. Once I started moving again, (and the engine was > 2000RPM) the light went off and the car feels fine. I have 5100 Miles.
Its now sunday, and there's no one open that I want to take it to, but I can't get this off my mind. So here are my questions.
What did I most likely do?
What will it cost me to fix?
Is it safe to drive until monday morning?
How can I get this to be covered either under my Warranty or Insurance policy?
Please help
Jarett
Its now sunday, and there's no one open that I want to take it to, but I can't get this off my mind. So here are my questions.
What did I most likely do?
What will it cost me to fix?
Is it safe to drive until monday morning?
How can I get this to be covered either under my Warranty or Insurance policy?
Please help
Jarett
#13
Same problem, but it smooths out at 2k and up. I have a bad injector according to the shop, but now I wonder if I too am a victim of the dreaded #4. The question I have is : Did your car smooth out above 2k or did it run rough at all RPMs? This can help me to know. My car uses no oil though, weird!
Thanks in advance for the help
Mark DiGrappa
Thanks in advance for the help
Mark DiGrappa
#14
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No, it feels fine >2k. The light shuts off almost as soon as I start moving. I think I ws mistaken though. If I bring it above 2k while stopped in neutral, the check engine keeps flashing. It only turns off once I'm in motion.
I'm pretty sure this is related to my misshifting, but I don't know what I did. If I had a bent valve I assume that I would hear/feel it all the time, and the light wouldn't go off.
Any ideas?
Jarett
I'm pretty sure this is related to my misshifting, but I don't know what I did. If I had a bent valve I assume that I would hear/feel it all the time, and the light wouldn't go off.
Any ideas?
Jarett
#16
Actually the OBD-II system checks a whole bunch of stuff besides the engine. The MIL (Maintenance Indicator Light- Improperly termed the CEL on this thread) can either set, if there is a hard failure or flash to note there is an impending failure. If after 40 starts the impending fault is not detected again the MIL is cancelled by the OBD-II. What you need is to have someone with an OBD-II scanner download the codes to see what you car(s) are freaking out about. There was a group buy recently for software and interface connectors (about 75 bucks) to see EXACTLY what your car is doing (try a search).
P.S. The gas cap check is a good thought, make sure you click it 3-4 clicks.
P.S. The gas cap check is a good thought, make sure you click it 3-4 clicks.
#17
The verdict on my car.........8 bent valves!!! All forur in cyl. # 3 & 4 !!! Holy Shit!!! is what I said, add this to the injector failure, and viola! you have a car that runs on about 2 cyl. What puzzles me is how I could keep up with stock S2000s all day last Sunday!?! Is this due to my engine mods, are they that good? Note: The engine mods were NOT part of the failure according to the honda tech.
Well it looks like I need new valves, and I might as well get springs, and retainers, while I am at it.
Well it looks like I need new valves, and I might as well get springs, and retainers, while I am at it.
#18
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Well, my dealer is being very vauge, but what I've gotten from them is that I've lost compression in my #1 Cylinder, and that the Valve-Rocker Arm is damaged.
Any ideas on what this should cost me if it's denied under the warranty?
I just don't want to get ripped off.
Thanks
Jarett
Any ideas on what this should cost me if it's denied under the warranty?
I just don't want to get ripped off.
Thanks
Jarett
#19
[QUOTE]Originally posted by jdchaiken
[B]Well, my dealer is being very vauge, but what I've gotten from them is that I've lost compression in my #1 Cylinder, and that the Valve-Rocker Arm is damaged.
Any ideas on what this should cost me if it's denied under the warranty?
[B]Well, my dealer is being very vauge, but what I've gotten from them is that I've lost compression in my #1 Cylinder, and that the Valve-Rocker Arm is damaged.
Any ideas on what this should cost me if it's denied under the warranty?
#20
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by modifry
[B]Problems like this that are not frequent enough to generate a TSB, are a good reason to start an on-line database of all of our various problems.
[B]Problems like this that are not frequent enough to generate a TSB, are a good reason to start an on-line database of all of our various problems.
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