Rough Idle, Bogging on Takeoff, Upper RPMS are ok
#1
Rough Idle, Bogging on Takeoff, Upper RPMS are ok
So I searched and this happens to a lot of people apparently, so a short description of my issue.
Car runs and drives at cruising speeds and WOT just fine, VTEC engages strong, car is stock w 42k. However when I come to a stop the RPM's drop usually to 2 or 3 ticks, sometimes even 1 tick and the car shudders. Then it will come back up to 3 or 4 ticks and basically cycle between a rough idle and a smooth idle. I would say 2 out of 10 times it will just idle perfectly at 4 ticks smooth the entire time. So today the car started to bog down when I would first start out, not die but come close for a second and then drive like normal, it did this a few times when I short shifted into 2nd gear as well but not as pronounced.
Things I have tried, MAP whack (does the car need to be on when I do this? I assume its to free a seized internal part of it...) and I removed the backup ECU/Acc fuse and its fine. I figure the next low cost step is to clean the TB, I did a quick search and didn't see any how to's. I'm not the most mechanically inclined, but I assume all I have to do is loosen the ring when the intake attached to the TB and blast away with some TB cleaner, right? Any other ideas/solutions would be great, this car is my DD and I could deal with a rough idle but bogging down at every start in California is a nightmare.
Any input is greatly appreciated guys! Thanks in advance!
Car runs and drives at cruising speeds and WOT just fine, VTEC engages strong, car is stock w 42k. However when I come to a stop the RPM's drop usually to 2 or 3 ticks, sometimes even 1 tick and the car shudders. Then it will come back up to 3 or 4 ticks and basically cycle between a rough idle and a smooth idle. I would say 2 out of 10 times it will just idle perfectly at 4 ticks smooth the entire time. So today the car started to bog down when I would first start out, not die but come close for a second and then drive like normal, it did this a few times when I short shifted into 2nd gear as well but not as pronounced.
Things I have tried, MAP whack (does the car need to be on when I do this? I assume its to free a seized internal part of it...) and I removed the backup ECU/Acc fuse and its fine. I figure the next low cost step is to clean the TB, I did a quick search and didn't see any how to's. I'm not the most mechanically inclined, but I assume all I have to do is loosen the ring when the intake attached to the TB and blast away with some TB cleaner, right? Any other ideas/solutions would be great, this car is my DD and I could deal with a rough idle but bogging down at every start in California is a nightmare.
Any input is greatly appreciated guys! Thanks in advance!
#4
Interesting, its an 02 and I actually was playing with the cable thinking it may be a little loose, when you look at it its pulled straight but when you put your finger on it, it can definitely sag maybe half an inch or so before you feel tension, I bought the car used and dont have a manual, if you have any resources or a good tip on how to adjust it correctly I would really appreciate it, there are two nuts that seem to control the tension, should I just tighten them up a little til the cable is taught but not strained?
#5
The idle is not controlled by the throttle cable, but by a screw type adjustment on the throttle body. So adjusting the throttle cable to raise the idle may not be the best fix. Make sure your map sensor connection is clean and tight. Also, does the s2k have a Fast idle Valve or Idle air control valve...these are known to get clogged up with carbon on many hondas and can play havoc.
#6
Former Moderator
It does have an IACV. Idle issues can sometimes be taken care of by cleaning. There are instructions in the DIY FAQ.
This issue though sounds more like the MAP. You can try cleaning the TB, but you need to get to the backside of the TB to clean the port routing air to the MAP. You'll probably need a new TB gasket when you do that.
But look at the MAP...does it have a zip tie looking thing on it? If not, then it is an older MAP. You might have better results replacing the MAP with a new one. The MAP issue commonly is the connection to it's plug...vibration over time causes the plug connectors to get filed down and no longer hold a good connection. The new MAP with zip tie is supposed to keep the connectors in good shape.
This issue though sounds more like the MAP. You can try cleaning the TB, but you need to get to the backside of the TB to clean the port routing air to the MAP. You'll probably need a new TB gasket when you do that.
But look at the MAP...does it have a zip tie looking thing on it? If not, then it is an older MAP. You might have better results replacing the MAP with a new one. The MAP issue commonly is the connection to it's plug...vibration over time causes the plug connectors to get filed down and no longer hold a good connection. The new MAP with zip tie is supposed to keep the connectors in good shape.
#7
Registered User
https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showt...&#entry10624891
You'll need probably need to give the TB a clean after too.
You'll need probably need to give the TB a clean after too.
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#9
Well I believe I solved the problem, I got frustrated and angry and hit the MAP with a pair of really heavy pliers and the car runs a ton better, so for those who have tried the map whack, don't be afraid to add a little hate to your swing is my best advice I guess, just don't barely tap it like I did the first time. Thanks for the suggestions guys