Rough idle
#11
I'm not sure what weight oil I am running. A dealer has done the oil since the car was purchased at 4,000 miles. The thing is, the car never idled this rough. It always seemed more smooth. Also, when I turn the air-conditioning on, the car will go through this cycle where it almost stalls out at a stop, and the sensors will kick the rpm back up to about 1500 and it will drop to low, to about 500 and almost stall again and it will jump it back up and do that over and over. Still no check engine light. Pretty sure that isn't normal.
Originally Posted by rob-2' timestamp='1341292808' post='21829914
What weight oil are you running?
You'll notice compared to a luxury car or even a standard sedan the motor in the S is 'raw' and rather unrefined at idle. This can make idle seem rough.
You'll notice compared to a luxury car or even a standard sedan the motor in the S is 'raw' and rather unrefined at idle. This can make idle seem rough.
the same with my car, my engine started hesitating when i turn on the AC or whenver i shift to neutral in the stop, i cleaned my intake,iacv,even re-oil the motor,new sprk plugs,seafoam intake and gastank and new coilpacks,i hope someone have solution for this
#12
Well like I said in my previous post, I have a 2006 Mazda 3 that was doing the same thing but even without the air condition off. The car lent up having 2 cracked motor mounts and spark plug issues. I am going to take my S2000 into my mechanic on Monday (seeing as its Friday and I won't be back at the house with the s2k until later). I'm guessing its the same thing.
the same with my car, my engine started hesitating when i turn on the AC or whenver i shift to neutral in the stop, i cleaned my intake,iacv,even re-oil the motor,new sprk plugs,seafoam intake and gastank and new coilpacks,i hope someone have solution for this
[/quote]
Originally Posted by CreamPuff' timestamp='1341293244' post='21829927
I'm not sure what weight oil I am running. A dealer has done the oil since the car was purchased at 4,000 miles. The thing is, the car never idled this rough. It always seemed more smooth. Also, when I turn the air-conditioning on, the car will go through this cycle where it almost stalls out at a stop, and the sensors will kick the rpm back up to about 1500 and it will drop to low, to about 500 and almost stall again and it will jump it back up and do that over and over. Still no check engine light. Pretty sure that isn't normal.
[quote name='rob-2' timestamp='1341292808' post='21829914']
What weight oil are you running?
You'll notice compared to a luxury car or even a standard sedan the motor in the S is 'raw' and rather unrefined at idle. This can make idle seem rough.
[quote name='rob-2' timestamp='1341292808' post='21829914']
What weight oil are you running?
You'll notice compared to a luxury car or even a standard sedan the motor in the S is 'raw' and rather unrefined at idle. This can make idle seem rough.
the same with my car, my engine started hesitating when i turn on the AC or whenver i shift to neutral in the stop, i cleaned my intake,iacv,even re-oil the motor,new sprk plugs,seafoam intake and gastank and new coilpacks,i hope someone have solution for this
[/quote]
#16
I know this issue very well. i have been dealing with this shake since 2010 -_-. here is the list of things i have found out that does this .
-Alternator ( the diodes) if your inside lights are not flickering then your fine.
- loose battery or bad battery
-dirty air filter - specialy cold air intakes, the fitler is proned to road debree.
- in need of a valve adjustment .
-Alternator ( the diodes) if your inside lights are not flickering then your fine.
- loose battery or bad battery
-dirty air filter - specialy cold air intakes, the fitler is proned to road debree.
- in need of a valve adjustment .
#18
Hey guys, thank you for all the feedback.
I took it in to my mechanic finally. After a couple of hours at the shop, he ran a compression check and my first two cylinders have low compression. The first two cylinders are running at 75% compression. Apparently the normal compression is about 220 lbs per cylinder, and my first two were running at around 175 lbs each. He then put pressure into the cylinders to find out where the pressure was leaking and found out that the exhaust valves were leaking the pressure. The valves were already pretty tight but he managed to tighten them a little more. The compression maybe gained 5%.
My warranty just ran out and I am attempting to have my uncle call Honda USA to see if they will cover some or all of the car. The car was well maintained by my father and I for the last 4 or so years. It was regularly taken in and I have all the paper work to show that. If this does not work, and Honda decides to not cover any of the problems, I do not plan on putting the same valves back in and will be upgrading and modifying the car.
I don't know anything about good modification parts / companies for S2000's and although this is a rough idle thread, if anyone has anything in mind that would be greatly appreciated.
When I find out what Honda is going to do, I will be back for more help if necessary!
Once again, I appreciate all the help that I have received. I am not very knowledgeable on motors except the basics on how they work.
- Matt G.
I took it in to my mechanic finally. After a couple of hours at the shop, he ran a compression check and my first two cylinders have low compression. The first two cylinders are running at 75% compression. Apparently the normal compression is about 220 lbs per cylinder, and my first two were running at around 175 lbs each. He then put pressure into the cylinders to find out where the pressure was leaking and found out that the exhaust valves were leaking the pressure. The valves were already pretty tight but he managed to tighten them a little more. The compression maybe gained 5%.
My warranty just ran out and I am attempting to have my uncle call Honda USA to see if they will cover some or all of the car. The car was well maintained by my father and I for the last 4 or so years. It was regularly taken in and I have all the paper work to show that. If this does not work, and Honda decides to not cover any of the problems, I do not plan on putting the same valves back in and will be upgrading and modifying the car.
I don't know anything about good modification parts / companies for S2000's and although this is a rough idle thread, if anyone has anything in mind that would be greatly appreciated.
When I find out what Honda is going to do, I will be back for more help if necessary!
Once again, I appreciate all the help that I have received. I am not very knowledgeable on motors except the basics on how they work.
- Matt G.
#20
We will see though.
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