Rod Bearings/ Cylinder Wall (Inspection)
#22
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Hey guys, so I put some new rod bearing in the car (same color codes as before) and and tolerances came out about the same. One question, two of the bearings are still on the tight end of what's recommended in the manuel; they came out between .025mm and .038mm on the plastigauge scale and Honda recommends .03-.054. Should I stick with what I have or try to go down a size for the two bearings? :-)
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#23
As long as you give your journals a tiny polish I think you'll be golden.
#24
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Do not touch the crank or polish it in any way unless it is warranted and in your case it is not.
There is no way you found a tight bearing. You are doing something wrong. Whatever noise you think you are hearing is not coming from the con rod bearings.
There is no way you found a tight bearing. You are doing something wrong. Whatever noise you think you are hearing is not coming from the con rod bearings.
#25
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I planned on not touching the crank after seeing it up close. The bearings did look worn so I thought it would warrant replacement. The plastigauge is reading in the .03 mm range after further inspection; I believe the plastigauge might have slipped and smeared when removing the rod caps giving me a tighter tolerance reading. I plan on putting in new rod bearings of the same color code and slapping everything back together. If I got anything out of this, it would be the experience. Thanks again! I can't wait to inspect WreckIt's car since you did the once over. Haha
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#26
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Hey, does anyone know the procedure to torque new oem rod cap bolts? Could I use motor oil to lube the bolts then just torrque to 25 N-m then 90 degrees like the manual states.
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#27
Yep that's fine, or assembly lube, and make sure you coat the journal and bearings in oil too.
#28
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So I have been driving the s2000 for a few days and it feels/sounds great. Thank you everyone for the advice.
:-)
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:-)
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