Rod bearing questions
#1
Rod bearing questions
Hey guys so I noticed a ticking sound coming from the engine this morning, I showed it to our master tech at the shop (I'm an intern at a shop here in denver, not a pro)and he said it sounded like my rod bearing.
He said the rod bearing HAD NOT spun.
the car is an AP1 with about 150K miles on it.
I've had a p1399 code for a while, recently had a valve adjust, new plugs, always fresh oil every 3k, BG MOA once and a while.
I'm replacing the rod bearing next week but what I'd like to know is what other parts should be replaced while I have the engine apart?
I'm hoping there isn't any major damage as it just started a very faint tick this morning.
I know i wont know for sure the extent of the damage until its apart, i was just wondering what is recommended changing while the engine is out.
Labor is free that's why I'm not just swapping another engine into it.
also how much does a set of rod bearings cost?
thank you
He said the rod bearing HAD NOT spun.
the car is an AP1 with about 150K miles on it.
I've had a p1399 code for a while, recently had a valve adjust, new plugs, always fresh oil every 3k, BG MOA once and a while.
I'm replacing the rod bearing next week but what I'd like to know is what other parts should be replaced while I have the engine apart?
I'm hoping there isn't any major damage as it just started a very faint tick this morning.
I know i wont know for sure the extent of the damage until its apart, i was just wondering what is recommended changing while the engine is out.
Labor is free that's why I'm not just swapping another engine into it.
also how much does a set of rod bearings cost?
thank you
#4
#5
It's typically a bad idea to try and do it through the oil pan. you don't get to check proper clearances, you dont know if any damage to the crank was done.
its easier to do it the right way the first time
#6
Originally Posted by wrecked' timestamp='1365265151' post='22455651
Rod bearings are cheap and I think you can replace them by just removing the oil pan
It's typically a bad idea to try and do it through the oil pan. you don't get to check proper clearances, you dont know if any damage to the crank was done.
its easier to do it the right way the first time
Uhhhh pretty sure you can still check clearance just fine....and if you rotate the crank, you can see if any damage was done.
Just an FYI though. Our motor uses a color coded system to determine what size rod bearings you need (I think for the rods there are 7 different possibilities which are all considered standard size). You need the journal codes from your crankshaft which is laser engraved on the #1 web. (Harmonic Balancer side). You will then need the code off of the rod. Depending on the combination of number from your rod and letter from your crank, that will determine what color of the 7 possibilities is the *most likely* choice to be within factory clearance specs.
#7
[/quote]
Uhhhh pretty sure you can still check clearance just fine....and if you rotate the crank, you can see if any damage was done.
Just an FYI though. Our motor uses a color coded system to determine what size rod bearings you need (I think for the rods there are 7 different possibilities which are all considered standard size). You need the journal codes from your crankshaft which is laser engraved on the #1 web. (Harmonic Balancer side). You will then need the code off of the rod. Depending on the combination of number from your rod and letter from your crank, that will determine what color of the 7 possibilities is the *most likely* choice to be within factory clearance specs.
[/quote]
I've read many different threads saying not to go through the oil pan.
if you took it to a dealership, how do you think they are gonna fix it?
disassembling the head provides a much more in depth picture of the engine condition. theres usually reasons major parts go wrong, if you just replace that part there still something lurking that needs to be fixed...
Uhhhh pretty sure you can still check clearance just fine....and if you rotate the crank, you can see if any damage was done.
Just an FYI though. Our motor uses a color coded system to determine what size rod bearings you need (I think for the rods there are 7 different possibilities which are all considered standard size). You need the journal codes from your crankshaft which is laser engraved on the #1 web. (Harmonic Balancer side). You will then need the code off of the rod. Depending on the combination of number from your rod and letter from your crank, that will determine what color of the 7 possibilities is the *most likely* choice to be within factory clearance specs.
[/quote]
I've read many different threads saying not to go through the oil pan.
if you took it to a dealership, how do you think they are gonna fix it?
disassembling the head provides a much more in depth picture of the engine condition. theres usually reasons major parts go wrong, if you just replace that part there still something lurking that needs to be fixed...
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#8
I've read many different threads saying not to go through the oil pan.
if you took it to a dealership, how do you think they are gonna fix it?
disassembling the head provides a much more in depth picture of the engine condition. theres usually reasons major parts go wrong, if you just replace that part there still something lurking that needs to be fixed...
if you took it to a dealership, how do you think they are gonna fix it?
disassembling the head provides a much more in depth picture of the engine condition. theres usually reasons major parts go wrong, if you just replace that part there still something lurking that needs to be fixed...
Totally depends. Rod bearings can go (and usually are the first to go) from an oil starvation situation. If it's caught early enough there won't be any large bearing pieces to worry about and generally the crank is fine and new bearings can be dropped in.
I'd post a video though of your "rod knock" because it has a very specific sound and there are other things with this engine that can give you very similar sounds.
Does the sound go away once warmed up? Or does it only happen when warm? These are some of the questions that should be answered first and other things should be checked out before you jump the gun thinking you have rod knock. Unless it truly is evident.
#9
Agreed with the above. Going through the oil pan is viable solution for the TRAINED eyes. Just make sure you clean/wash/flush real well. In most cases, it'll need a new crank but it's a hell of a lot easier to slip in a new crank than it is to take everything out and apart. If it was me and I had a weekend for the job, I'd definitely spend the ~80$ on bearings for a shot at not having to do an in-out-in on the entire motor lol.