jschmidt

[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcucci
[B]Alternators DO have more parasitic drag as load increases.

Tanqueray

[QUOTE]Originally posted by RT
[B]I'm not a proponent of this thing but for all you stereo jockeys out there, I'm sure you've run in to Ground Loop problems causing noise.

RT

Tanq, agreed

marcucci

Jim-
The "basic" explanation is that the alternator makes current- as long as it's spinning above a certain minimum RPM, it should be making more than 12V (or 13.xx). Anything beyond that gets turned into a current supply. I'm not sure how better to explain it other than a larger load (less resistance, more like a short) that draws more current puts more of a load on the alternator, and thus the motor. The current draw basically gets turned into a stronger magnetic field that "drains" the alternator more. There's essentially more EM "friction" between the rotor and stator in the alternator. I don't suppose that explanation helps?

Tanq-
I agree but would like to add that the blower for the heat/AC draws more like 60-150W. They usually range from 5-12A, depending on how strong it is and who made it.

As far as power goes, the highest electrical "loading" on a stock vehicle is usually the blower or the headlights (or both, combined). In our car, I'm betting it's the EPS (power steering). I believe it's fused at 60A which would tell me it draws 40-50A normally. Since I can feel/see the car bog when idling and moving the wheel, I'd say it's an appreciable draw.

I agree with Tanq, though, if not his numbers- it's still too small a difference for any grounding "scheme" beyond Honda's to improve.

Tanqueray

[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcucci
[B]

Elistan

I heard a rule of thumb that in order for a power increas to be noticable to the butt dyno, it has to be on the order of at least 10% difference. That would mean this system gives at least 24hp? Somehow, I don't think so. Given what I know of how internal combustion engines work, I doubt it would have any power gains at all. But I'm always happy to look at hard evidence.

Regarding power drains - with my new ultra-loud J's Racing exhaust, I can sometimes hear a change in exhaust note when turning on the headlights. The revs stay the same, it's just the noise gets a bit louder - as if the ECU is giving the engine a bit more gas to compensate for the extra drain on the electrical system.

mingster

if there were any possible way we can do this thing for an economical price, i'm sure it'd be a little more popular. i saw the SEV stuff's pricing and i went

a single outlet exhaust like the Minuni N1-Street exhaust system on the other hand...LOL , sorry.

jschmidt

[QUOTE]Originally posted by marcucci
[B]Jim-

marcucci

Tanq-
I was referring to the idle shifting. Sitting at idle, move the sheel back and forth- you should see a 200RPM or so shift, about what you see when the AC kicks on or off. Not much, but it's noticeable. Not via the butt dyno, though IMHO.

Yes, but to a point- the battery is 12.xx volts (nominal) and the alternator is 13.xx volts. This is due in part to the charging system, you *have* to have a difference in potential for current flow. The battery generally is "offline" while the engine is running, *unless* the current draw on the alternator drops the voltage lower than the battery voltage, then the battery becomes a current source for the electronics.

Quote:

The alternator delivers charging current at a given rate (above the minimum rpm and at a given rpm.) In steps generally, the current is wasted by regulation as it is not needed. Is this correct?

The alternator only charges at what I'm calling the unwasted rate which is always the same since it is always generated prior to wasting. Is this correct?

I'm not sure what you mean by "wasted by regulation" but I think I know what you're getting at. The voltage regulator regulates the voltage to the 13.xxV that is normal. The rate at which the battery charges should be dependent on how "drained" the battery is. The current draw on the alternator from the battery should be within a "window," say that I would think that Honda designs to. In other words, if I worked at Honda I would spin the alternator as fast as needed to charge an "average" battery that has been drained an "average" amount, + maybe 10 or 20%. That would insure that in all cases but a "battery failure" that you would charge the battery at idle. Then again, I'm not sure what "average" is.

A general rule of thumb (not sure how accurate it is) is that your battery doesn't charge at idle when the lights are on. I think this is reasonable, considering the load the lights place on the battery. I haven't the foggies idea what HIDs draw in terms of current, BTW. This rule of thumb is back from when bulbs were incandescent and people didn't bright-light me unless I had my brights on.

Quote:

So, in other words, where am I wrong? In these points or somewhere else? I do understand what you are describing as it relates to a motor under load, if that helps. Thanks for the effort.

I don't think you are wrong, at least how I interpret it here.

AusS2000

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