Is this reusable or done for?
02-24-2010, 03:16 AM
#12
Originally Posted by Sukeetoshyoo88,Feb 24 2010, 03:26 AM
so how does that happen after doing donuts?
The sump isn't baffled, it's happened to some people on track days when driven hard for extended periods.
Any other theories?
02-24-2010, 04:27 AM
#13
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so how'd you know something went wrong?
or how would on tell if this happens to them?
i dont do donuts or anything.
but just for future reference i'd like to know what causes this/ how one would know if it's happened to them.
or how would on tell if this happens to them?
i dont do donuts or anything.
but just for future reference i'd like to know what causes this/ how one would know if it's happened to them.
02-24-2010, 07:42 AM
#14
I think the engine would develop really bad rod knock and probably piston slap after that kind of damage shown in the pictures. Would sound like a loud metallic sharp knocking and might start smoking due to oil bypass. I'm no expert mechanic but I've experienced rod knock in previous cars and it's an awful sound.
You would know if this happened to your engine thats for sure, it would either knock, smoke or throw a conrod through the block
You would know if this happened to your engine thats for sure, it would either knock, smoke or throw a conrod through the block
02-24-2010, 09:37 AM
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Ask another machine shop if they can fix the crank, if they can't then its junk. Toss the rod, i wouldn't reuse that one. As for as the bore goes for the service manual of most hondas; if the scratching does not run the full length of the bore and cannot be caught by the finger nail then its ok. Have someone drop a dial bore gauge into the bad cylinder and measure it, make sure it is within spec. Have someone mic the piston and make sure its in spec. This is what i would do if i wanted to get it running without spending massive amounts of money. Oops didn't see that you picked up a used shortblock. Goodluck!
02-24-2010, 11:55 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by SilverS2kF22C1,Feb 22 2010, 04:37 PM
depends on the code the bore could be a type "A" or "I" which is 87.010 - 87.020 mm or type "B" or "II" which is 87.000 - 87.010mm. The pistions are not marked if it is a type "A" bore, but marked "B" on a type "B" bore. I think the marking would be found on the skirt.
02-25-2010, 12:07 AM
#17
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Originally Posted by Sukeetoshyoo88,Feb 24 2010, 05:27 AM
so how'd you know something went wrong?
or how would on tell if this happens to them?
i dont do donuts or anything.
but just for future reference i'd like to know what causes this/ how one would know if it's happened to them.
or how would on tell if this happens to them?
i dont do donuts or anything.
but just for future reference i'd like to know what causes this/ how one would know if it's happened to them.
02-25-2010, 12:08 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by buaan,Feb 23 2010, 05:05 AM
The hardest part to fix is the cylinder bore.
Search ' FRM + hone ' in the search feature. Fibre reinforced material cylinder walls are really hard to rehone/bore and require alot of expertise and special stones.
If I lived in the USA these would be my options (not necessarily right)
Option 1 - http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/s2000.htm $3550 (best option imo)
BTW they wont accept a crank with a spun bearing, yours doesn't look to be spun but you would want to enquire and sent pictures to laskey in advance to ordering.
Option 2 - second hand full engine and sell your old parts on to recoup costs (no idea how much in USA $2000-$3000?)
Option 3 - new short block from one of these suppliers https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...pic=760845&hl=
Option 4 - find a good machine shop, bore out to remove scoring, rehone, new oversize pistons/rings, try and polish scoring off crank, new bearings suited to new crank tollerances
From the pictures the bearing has suffered oil starvation (check here http://www.heavydutyenginekits.com/bearing/) probably due to the intertia of you doing doughnuts. The crank/piston has over heated also causing the damage/scoring.
I'd save up and go for option 1. In the long run it'll be best and strongest.
Search ' FRM + hone ' in the search feature. Fibre reinforced material cylinder walls are really hard to rehone/bore and require alot of expertise and special stones.
If I lived in the USA these would be my options (not necessarily right)
Option 1 - http://www.laskeyracing.com/shop/s2000.htm $3550 (best option imo)
BTW they wont accept a crank with a spun bearing, yours doesn't look to be spun but you would want to enquire and sent pictures to laskey in advance to ordering.
Option 2 - second hand full engine and sell your old parts on to recoup costs (no idea how much in USA $2000-$3000?)
Option 3 - new short block from one of these suppliers https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...pic=760845&hl=
Option 4 - find a good machine shop, bore out to remove scoring, rehone, new oversize pistons/rings, try and polish scoring off crank, new bearings suited to new crank tollerances
From the pictures the bearing has suffered oil starvation (check here http://www.heavydutyenginekits.com/bearing/) probably due to the intertia of you doing doughnuts. The crank/piston has over heated also causing the damage/scoring.
I'd save up and go for option 1. In the long run it'll be best and strongest.
02-25-2010, 02:21 AM
#19
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Looking at what you need, I would say it would be more cost affective for you to get a new short block. The Crank would need to be inspected but unless it's twisted should be possible to fix. For the cost of a rod I would use a new one, as so with the piston. The is quite a lot of work involved in sorting out the bore of a FRM block correctly if it is necessary, so by the time you've factored in any new rod/piston's, full set of rings, bearings and labour it's not worth it for a standard type engine. If you were to uprate rods/pistons etc then that is a different matter.
To see what is involved in re-honing the bore etc this link should give you some idea
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/ht...ners/index.html
To see what is involved in re-honing the bore etc this link should give you some idea
http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/ht...ners/index.html
02-25-2010, 03:02 AM
#20
Originally Posted by typewx,Feb 25 2010, 12:55 AM
i asked around... there is no such thing...
Got it right out of their shop manual... Guess I should ask around instead of looking it up from the manufacture in the future... 