Belkin623

Alright, thanks for that answer, but that still doesn't tell me why all the marks are such a bad thing? Just chatter? I definitely want to get as much mileage as I can as well, but If it doesn't need to be done, then I won't waste that money. I using a used clutch because it was $35 instead of $350 and it only has less than 15k miles on it. Also, I couldn't find a short socked, so I just went with the deep. I'm going to rent a more powerful impact right now. Hopefully that'll do the job.

B serious

The marks are high/hard spots on the steel. The clutch friction disk will have a hard time grabbing that and there will be chatter from the high spots.

You need to machine that layer of steel away so that you can properly bed in your friction disk.

Hopefully, you bought a Honda genuine clutch disk, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, release bearing guide, and urea grease at the very least.

As you've experienced, this isn't something you want to open back up in a couple of months due to a failed component or bad installation.

Belkin623

I rented a pneumatic impact and it just BARELY had enough power to get the bolts off.

And okay, thank you for that description. That helps a lot.

Yes, I bought Genuine Honda everything you listed except for the release bearing guide. I haven't heard of that before, through all the DIY's and articles I've read. What does that do, just align it correctly for the release fork?

zeroptzero

Good work getting the bolts off

15k miles on the used clutch parts should be good okay.

Service the flywheel and put in a new pilot bearing. The release bearing referred above is the throwout bearing.

Use Honda High temp urea grease and put it in all of the required areas - inside the clutch disc splines, fill the inside crease of the throwout bearing with grease so it is level with the top of the crease.

Belkin623

Got the flywheel resurfaced for $30! Looks f@#king clean now. I'm so glad I got that done. I'm putting the new pilot bearing in now. Where are ALL, and I mean ALLLLL, of the spots I need to put Urea grease in? I already have the grease and I'm about to put everything back together right now.

Also, the "B Serious" said I need a release bearing GUIDE.. what is that? Is he just talking about the Clutch Alignment Tool? I already have that as well.

Belkin623

And is it okay to get the Urea grease on my bare skin?

zeroptzero

Good choice on resurfacing.

Put grease on the inside splines of the clutch. On the inside surface of the throwout bearing including filling up the inside crease until it is level with grease. The release bearing guide is the smooth tube-like part on the front of the tranny, I never replaced mine, as long as it looks in good condition it should be fine. You also put grease on the release bearing guide. You put grease on three points of the release fork - the two ends of the fork that contact the throwout release bearing (surfaces facing the tranny), and the round roller bearing on the inside center of the fork which sits in the hangar/spring. Also put some grease in the hanger/spring which mates up to the release fork.

The same grease is used on the ball of the slave cylinder rod once you get the tranny installed, as you bolt up the slave cylinder to the tranny housing.

The grease instructions say that it is a skin irritant, I've gotten it on my skin before without any issue, use latex/nitrile gloves if you can.

Belkin623

Awesome. Thank you very much! I don't need Loctite for anything, right? I hate that stuff..

zeroptzero

nope.

If you don't have the shop manual I could scan the grease points by email. Filling the crease inside the throwout release bearing so it is level with grease is not listed in the shop manual, it is a tip put forward by some of the S2000 mechanics as a way of keeping it lubed for life.

Belkin623

No, it's fine, I trust you and understand which spots you're talking about.