Resurface Flywheel?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arizona - Northwest valley
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Resurface Flywheel?
Trying to take my flywheel off to get it resurfaced since I'm changing my clutch (with a used clutch.. I know, I shouldn't use a used clutch), but I can't get it off. Don't have a strong enough impact and can't get it otherwise. My dad came to help me and of course gave up after 10 minutes, saying it doesn't need to be resurfaced.
So I'm coming to you guys. It's pretty smooth, there are a few small grooves, but Its not bad. The only thing I'm concerned about, is that it is completely covered in dark spots. Hot spots, wear spots, whatever else. The car has 100k miles on it, and I'm assuming the same of the clutch and flywheel. Do I need to resurface it?? Please give a detailed reason.
I would post a picture, but I don't know how to.
So I'm coming to you guys. It's pretty smooth, there are a few small grooves, but Its not bad. The only thing I'm concerned about, is that it is completely covered in dark spots. Hot spots, wear spots, whatever else. The car has 100k miles on it, and I'm assuming the same of the clutch and flywheel. Do I need to resurface it?? Please give a detailed reason.
I would post a picture, but I don't know how to.
#2
Hot spots are what you don't want to see on it, chances are it is in need of resurfacing by the sounds of it. Flywheel bolts are held on with a low amount of torque, I'm very surprised they are that difficult to remove Put a breaker bar on them.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arizona - Northwest valley
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Low amount of torque? The specs for it are 94ft/lbs. so idk what you're talking about! Lol I used. A 90 ft/lbs pneumatic impact and a 200 ft/lbs electric impact and they didn't do the trick. So i had my dad hold a pry bar in the teeth, pushing counter clockwise while I put a breaker bar on it and that didn't work. I just need a stronger impact, but idk if anyone I know has one strong enough. I'll find a link with what mine looks like.
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arizona - Northwest valley
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Mine looks exactly like the first picture on this website.
http://www.archivedsites.com/techcon...d-chatter.html
http://www.archivedsites.com/techcon...d-chatter.html
#5
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
Posts: 8,395
Received 1,418 Likes
on
1,052 Posts
You can't really turn back now.
1. Your flywheel needs to be resurfaced
2. You've been wrenching on the bolts. You need to remove them, clean them, and re torque them carefully.
I can't believe an impact won't easily remove them....but I guess if you're using a smaller one...it might make sense.
Have someone hold the crank pulley bolt. Put some back into it. I'm sure you can put down 300+LBS-FT with a decent 1/2" breaker bar even if you're weak.
1. Your flywheel needs to be resurfaced
2. You've been wrenching on the bolts. You need to remove them, clean them, and re torque them carefully.
I can't believe an impact won't easily remove them....but I guess if you're using a smaller one...it might make sense.
Have someone hold the crank pulley bolt. Put some back into it. I'm sure you can put down 300+LBS-FT with a decent 1/2" breaker bar even if you're weak.
#6
Low amount of torque? The specs for it are 94ft/lbs. so idk what you're talking about! Lol I used. A 90 ft/lbs pneumatic impact and a 200 ft/lbs electric impact and they didn't do the trick. So i had my dad hold a pry bar in the teeth, pushing counter clockwise while I put a breaker bar on it and that didn't work. I just need a stronger impact, but idk if anyone I know has one strong enough. I'll find a link with what mine looks like.
#7
Sounds like the bolts are overtorqued, or corroded, or both. But even so, should not be difficult to remove them. With a 2 foot breaker bar, you only need to press down with 50 lbs of force to get 100 ft/lbs on the bolt. Put all your weight on it, and you can get more than a couple hundred ft/lbs on the bolt.
Stop being a whimp and put some back into it!
Stop being a whimp and put some back into it!
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arizona - Northwest valley
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Can I get a detailed answer of why it needs to be resurfaced? Why is all the black stuff a problem? I've read about hot spots and understand that they are higher than the flywheel. But I'm sure it's not all hot spots.
Also, yes, my impact is strong, but not strong enough. We can easily put enough force on the bolts with a breaker bar, but the problem is keeping the damn deep socket on the stupid short-headed bolt.
Also, yes, my impact is strong, but not strong enough. We can easily put enough force on the bolts with a breaker bar, but the problem is keeping the damn deep socket on the stupid short-headed bolt.
#10
If the flywheel had say 30k miles on it and a few hot spots I'd say keep it as is, we've used flywheels with about 20 miles on them and a few marks and we simply cleaned the surface and it has been fine, we didn't even re-surface it. But yours is around 100k miles if I'm not mistaken ?, and significant hot spots clearly evident.
When you talk about doing things perfectly and according to spec in a perfect world, then the flywheel should be re-surfaced or replaced and you should be using a new clutch disc and throwout bearing and pilot bearing etc. That will get you another 100k miles easily and no worries down the road. Dropping the engine and pulling the tranny is not something I would want to do on a regular basis, so I would try to get as much time out of the job as possible.
You can go with the used flywheel and used clutch disc, and say 30k miles down the road you may get clutch chatter or slipping, as long as you are good with that then continue with the route you are going. If you don't mind dropping the engine and pulling the tranny sooner rather than later then that isn't a problem. Some guys may be better able to do work like that, in my stage of life I want to get as much mileage out of a job like that as possible. I think that is probably the worst job to do on this car with the amount of work and new parts you have to put into it every time the tranny has to be pulled.
WRT to the bolts, use a short socket, a deep socket is not good and is likely part of your issue, secondly with the proper sized socket use a snapping motion on the breaker bar rather than progressive force, you need to snap the bolts loose.
When you talk about doing things perfectly and according to spec in a perfect world, then the flywheel should be re-surfaced or replaced and you should be using a new clutch disc and throwout bearing and pilot bearing etc. That will get you another 100k miles easily and no worries down the road. Dropping the engine and pulling the tranny is not something I would want to do on a regular basis, so I would try to get as much time out of the job as possible.
You can go with the used flywheel and used clutch disc, and say 30k miles down the road you may get clutch chatter or slipping, as long as you are good with that then continue with the route you are going. If you don't mind dropping the engine and pulling the tranny sooner rather than later then that isn't a problem. Some guys may be better able to do work like that, in my stage of life I want to get as much mileage out of a job like that as possible. I think that is probably the worst job to do on this car with the amount of work and new parts you have to put into it every time the tranny has to be pulled.
WRT to the bolts, use a short socket, a deep socket is not good and is likely part of your issue, secondly with the proper sized socket use a snapping motion on the breaker bar rather than progressive force, you need to snap the bolts loose.