Replacing studs, new bearing?
#1
![Default](https://www.s2ki.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
So i'm replacing my oem studs with ARP extended studs. My understanding is, when you pull out the hub, you "must" replace the wheel bearing. My question is, why? How does pulling the hub out "damage" the wheel bearing, like someone said before in a different thread? If the wheel bearing is good, removing the hub shouldn't damage the bearing at all. Can I just reuse the same wheel bearing? Its been done so many times before, on other cars. Could someone explain to me that has knowledge and experience on actually doing this, not someone who read it somewhere else? Thank you!
![emot-tip-wink.gif](https://www.s2ki.com/forums/images/smilies/emot-tip-wink.gif)
#3
![Default](https://www.s2ki.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Unfortunately yes. I broke one rear stud the other day and now I have to spend a bunch replacing the wheel bearing as well, and since it requires a press, this is the one thing I can't do myself. In this case I'm just gonna replace all 5 studs cause I'm not going through this bullshit again if I happen to break another.
#4
![Default](https://www.s2ki.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Whats different in the act of being removed and the act of being installed? They both slide in and out. Why doesnt the bearing become damaged when the hub is installed? Thats what I dont get. Anyone here that can explain this?
#6
Moderator
![](https://www.s2ki.com/forums/images/s2ki/ranks/moderator.png)
![](https://staticssl.ibsrv.net/autocomm/Content/S2Ki/milestonestars-10yr.png)
![Default](https://www.s2ki.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When working with a bearing, you have:
-Knuckle: part that holds the bearing itself, and the suspension attaching points. "spindle" if you will is also used
-BEARING: composed of outer one-piece race shell, two rows of ball bearings with nylon spacing cages, and two inner races
-HUB: this is the part that has the 5 studs pressed into it. It's what the rotor sits directly against
So..
When the HUB is pressed out of the BEARING, one of the inner races is pulled from the BEARING and remains on the HUB.
SOME will say the act of pressing puts too much strain on the bearing, and this is what destroys it. This is not so. The forces are much greater when cornering the car, hence why the axle nut re-torque is needed. The cornering of the car is pulling the race off the hub.
They SAY it destroyes the bearing, but if someone is careful and competent with a press, and understands the forces put on the bearing during RE-INSTALL, one could support the assembly in a way to not put any undue stress on the bearing. With this, you dont need a new bearing.
I do this all the time, and dont replace the bearing. I have custom made supports, and micro thin plastic shoehorns that walk the ball bearings outward, so when the hub/race is pressed back in, it doesn't "spot" the bearings. The act of pressing together (not seperating) is what spots the balls and race and causes a rumble, destroying the bearing. NOT pressing it apart. Find an old school tech and explain this to him. If he "gets it", you won't need a bearing.
-Knuckle: part that holds the bearing itself, and the suspension attaching points. "spindle" if you will is also used
-BEARING: composed of outer one-piece race shell, two rows of ball bearings with nylon spacing cages, and two inner races
-HUB: this is the part that has the 5 studs pressed into it. It's what the rotor sits directly against
So..
When the HUB is pressed out of the BEARING, one of the inner races is pulled from the BEARING and remains on the HUB.
SOME will say the act of pressing puts too much strain on the bearing, and this is what destroys it. This is not so. The forces are much greater when cornering the car, hence why the axle nut re-torque is needed. The cornering of the car is pulling the race off the hub.
They SAY it destroyes the bearing, but if someone is careful and competent with a press, and understands the forces put on the bearing during RE-INSTALL, one could support the assembly in a way to not put any undue stress on the bearing. With this, you dont need a new bearing.
I do this all the time, and dont replace the bearing. I have custom made supports, and micro thin plastic shoehorns that walk the ball bearings outward, so when the hub/race is pressed back in, it doesn't "spot" the bearings. The act of pressing together (not seperating) is what spots the balls and race and causes a rumble, destroying the bearing. NOT pressing it apart. Find an old school tech and explain this to him. If he "gets it", you won't need a bearing.
#7
![Default](https://www.s2ki.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've replaced multiple studs and separated the bearings and put them back together a few times. I have about 10,000km on the track after doing this with no bearing problems.
Just be careful when putting it back and pulling out apart.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
Just be careful when putting it back and pulling out apart.
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://www.s2ki.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Im getting all 20 replaced with ARP studs billman said he might be able to do the job and save the bearing im getting it done this thurs ill postup my results
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2
#9
Former Moderator
![](https://www.s2ki.com/forums/images/s2ki/ranks/member.png)
![](https://staticssl.ibsrv.net/autocomm/Content/S2Ki/milestonestars-15yr.png)
![Default](https://www.s2ki.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The liability of not replacing the bearing is to great given the margin of error when pressing the inner race back into a sealed double row ball bearing. Do it wrong and you get to do it over. A new bearing is cheap. Don't worry, the bearing just located the hub that the wheel is attached to, no big thing for controlling a vehicle.
No OEM manufacturer or bearing supplier would recommend reassembling any double row bearing after the innner race was removed.
![suspect.gif](https://www.s2ki.com/forums/images/smilies/suspect.gif)
No OEM manufacturer or bearing supplier would recommend reassembling any double row bearing after the innner race was removed.
#10
![Default](https://www.s2ki.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The bearing is about $100 each. I'd rather be sure and replace the bearing than find out later my bearing has failed. Especially true if your car has some miles on it at the track or dodging cones. If I could do the work myself (and had the time) I would reuse the bearing, but since I don't its a cheap way to avoid risk of another drop-off and pick-up at the mechanic.
Best of all worlds would be to live next door to Billman for more S2000-related reasons then just hub bearing replacement! I'd risk it then, that's an easy call...
Best of all worlds would be to live next door to Billman for more S2000-related reasons then just hub bearing replacement! I'd risk it then, that's an easy call...