CJPeterson

Hey there!
Replacing clutch in my 2000 s2000
here are the parts i got so far.
http://screencast.com/t/imnEqFf4

I was told on facebook "Get a rear crank seal. You should replace it while everything is out since it's a pain to get to. Also the transmission shaft seal."
After some research i saw not to replace the crank seal if it isnt leaking, could it could cause more harm than good. But i cannot find the transmission shaft seals on majestic to save my life. Does anyone have the part number? see anything im missing for this job?

windhund116

If the front tranny seal is not leaking, I wouldn't replace it. Believe it is #4 on diagram:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...MT+CLUTCH+CASE

robertcope

Here is everything I ordered when doing my 2001 clutch a month or two ago:

18302-SP0-003 EX. Pipe Gasket
22841-PR8-010 Release Fork Boot
18229-PCX-003 EX. Flexible Gasket
22300-PCX-005 Pressure Disc
22810-PCY-003 Clutch Release Bearing
22820-PCY-000 Clutch Release Fork
50806-S2A-000 Transmission Mounting Rubber
91006-PCX-008 Clutch Pilot Bearing
91214-PCX-003 Oil Seal (80X98X10)
22200-PCX-055 Friction Disc
21103-PCY-003 Release Bearing Guide

In the end, I opted not to replace the main seal as it was not leaking and it seems the general advice is to leave it be.

Be careful with the knock sensor. Mine broke very easily while unplugging it. It was extremely brittle. $127 to replace it. I also ended up replacing all the exhaust bolts and a few of the driveshaft bolts.

robert

Slowcrash_101

Don't forget the release bearing guide sleeve, the bolts don't really need to be replaced, not a bad idea to do so but they don't usually go bad and I will re-use them with confidence.

If I were doing a clutch I'd get
Pressure Plate
Friction Disk
Release and pilot bearings
Release bearing guide sleeve
Rear main seal
Fork pivot

The transmission mounts rarely go bad, the exhaust gaskets is probably not a horrible idea but I've never had a problem re-using them.

I'd also get the shifter pivot(since these are usually broken) and spare driveshaft bolts, I can almost guarantee you'll strip at least one(best way to avoid stripping them is to use vice grip pliers on the bolt head and turn the bolt with a hex socket).

54111-S2A-003-shifter pivot, this part usually breaks when you remove it as well as 54107-S2A-003, it's a white plastic ring that you need to pop off before you can remove the shifter. http://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-l...ift-lever.html

http://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts-l...ler-shaft.html for the bolts.

For the Knock sensor, some people remove it before trying to take out the starter bolts. But if you're really careful you can leave it in no problem.

One thing you absolutely cannot forget to do is remove the exhaust manifold from the engine. Also don't forget to lock the steering wheel and mark the steering coupler(the one with the boot) so you can put it back exactly how you removed it. Also be careful with the harness from the EPS when lowering the subframe.

Other than that, prepare to hate life while pulling the transmission. I used ratcheting straps and an extra set of hands to help me pry the transmission from the engine. Putting it on is almost as bad.

riceball777

i done at least 5 clutch and transmission swaps in my garage. I highly do not recomend to change out the crack seal/ rear main seal unless it is leaking.

All you need is 4 parts.

1 new pressure plate
2 new clutch disc
3 new throw out bearing
4 new pilot bearing for the flywheel

and just have the oem flywheel resurfaced.

Slowcrash_101

You don't need to change it but it's good to have a new one just in case. If it's not broken you can leave it, but you don't want to be short changed and then try to buy a non-oem one. It's pretty much throwing your money away.

robertcope

That was not my experience. Mine came out with a little coaxing. It went back in so easy that I thought I'd done it wrong, so I pulled it out and put it back in again. Maybe I got lucky. I really didn't think the job was that hard. I just followed the workshop manual. There are probably steps it has that could be skipped, but I like to do it "right" the first time.

I'm not trying to say Slowcrash is wrong, just don't want anyone scared away from tackling the job.

robert

Soviet

I have done two clutch jobs and these are the only things I order.

Friction Disc
Pressure Plate
Release Bearing
Pilot Bearing
Flywheel Resurface.

If you have the right tools you need nothing else.

I've done shifter regreases on three different cars and none of them had broken pivot ball joins

B serious

I always change rear main seals also (but there seems to be some debate on that). With high mileage cars, Id definitely replace it. It takes some finesse.

A new release bearing guide is a must. You are really rolling the dice if you don't buy one. Always always always replace it.

I also always use honda urea grease.

xpressive

Mine was the same way.. Separating and mating the transmission was never an issue. I too thought I had done it wrong and pulled it apart to examine everything just to put it back the way it was. This was car on jack stands in the garage and the transmission balancing on a floor jack.