Replacing all 4 calipers best way to bleed
#1
Replacing all 4 calipers best way to bleed
I am going to be replacing all 4 calipers and wanted to gravity bleed, but not sure the best way to go about this since I will be introducing a massive amount of air with the new calipers. Can I just follow the normal gravity bleed DIYS? Also any idea on the amount of fluid? I have a 1L bottle of ATE that has been on the shelf for years, it is still sealed, so I assume it should be good, but trying to decide if it will be enough.
#2
Should be, I would get a helper and do a quick manual bleed first, then gravity bleed once more.
#3
Moderator
1 bottle will be good.
Start by unbolting steel line from hose, then use the bleeder rubber cap to cap the line. Then change caliper.
Start with gravity bleed. Once all 4 bleeders show fluid, pump pedal till solid.
Then do each wheel under pressure (helper holding pedal) 2-3 cycles and you're done.
Start by unbolting steel line from hose, then use the bleeder rubber cap to cap the line. Then change caliper.
Start with gravity bleed. Once all 4 bleeders show fluid, pump pedal till solid.
Then do each wheel under pressure (helper holding pedal) 2-3 cycles and you're done.
#4
Thanks Billman! I planned on keeping my soft lines to the brakes, they are stainless and seem to be in decent condition. Am I making a mistake by keeping them?
If I keep them can I just unbolt them really quick and bolt up the new caliper?
Just to clarify, you are suggesting to gravity bleed and then manual bleed until the pedal is good, so finish with a manual bleed?
If I keep them can I just unbolt them really quick and bolt up the new caliper?
Just to clarify, you are suggesting to gravity bleed and then manual bleed until the pedal is good, so finish with a manual bleed?
#5
If you're going to remove the banjo bolts, I would recommend new washers for them. Idk if there's a non oem option because they're $2-3/ea and you'll need 8 of them. p/n 46472-568-000
Sorry my dyslexia is at it again, yes like billman said, gravity bleed until fluid comes out of each bleeder, then pump the breaks with all bleeders closed, then do a manual bleed. Also I find it a lot easier to attach the parking brake cable with the caliper off the bracket, don't try to attach the cable with the caliper on the bracket, you will learn foul words you didn't even know existed.
Sorry my dyslexia is at it again, yes like billman said, gravity bleed until fluid comes out of each bleeder, then pump the breaks with all bleeders closed, then do a manual bleed. Also I find it a lot easier to attach the parking brake cable with the caliper off the bracket, don't try to attach the cable with the caliper on the bracket, you will learn foul words you didn't even know existed.
#7
If the lines are good re-use them, it's just that I've always been taught that any time you touch the banjo bolt you have to use new washers. I don't know if you can get away with just re-using them, I've never been brave enough to experiment.
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#8
Yeah with good reason, brakes are important!! I wonder if they are line specific or if just any general one will work? Hell maybe the new calipers came with some, I will have to check when I get home.
#9
Well I just finished doing a brake job and I got paid in goodridge stainless steel lines(bnib) + cash. I already have them on my car so I have no use for them. I can send you the banjo bolt washers if you want. Just pay for shipping. Pm me for details.
#10
Moderator
Re-use those factory silver banjo sealing washers with confidence.
Many copper ones come out distorted on other cars and I would always replace them, but these are very high quality.
Many copper ones come out distorted on other cars and I would always replace them, but these are very high quality.