Replacement 2.0L engine discontinued

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08-11-2013, 07:44 PM

#51

dwight

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Carbon Blue

billman, could one swap the crank out of a brand new ap2v1 block and reuse the F20 crank and maintain the 9k redline? Or is there just too much to swap over?

That's a very bad idea. The crank provides 6.3 mm less stroke. That means the pistons will be 3.15 mm further down when at TDC than they used to be. This increases the volume at TDC, which reduces compression. In addition, you'll be decreasing stroke which also reduces compression. I estimate that if you were able to simply swap the cranks (I don't know if the parts fit), the compression would go from 11.1:1 to 7.5:1.

If you used the AP1 connecting rods, then it can move the pistons back up to near where they should be, but you'd still only get a 10.6:1 compression ratio.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_S2000
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/199...ng-rod-lenght/

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08-12-2013, 08:49 AM

#52

iDomN8U

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I'm sure you can get aftermarket rods that would maintan the stroke. It's really down to the walls being the only part everything else can be replaced.

If when you scratch the walls, you can always press in aftermarket ones. FRM seems to be the ideal solution, there are alternatives.

It's not the end of the world.

BTW: In Canada we have the exact same format as US for S2000's. We recieved some different colour choices (Imola orange) other then that we're the same.

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08-12-2013, 03:16 PM

#53

afzan

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Quote:

Originally Posted by davidc1

Well, there will still be lots of F20c's available around the world, but what would shipping costs be? And, when you think about it, it always makes sense to replace with an F22c, unless you just must have that extra 1000rpm.

it's only 800 rpm difference.. 9000 fuel cut vs 8200 fuel cut

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08-12-2013, 04:49 PM

#54

s2000maniac

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That 800 makes ALL the difference!

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09-20-2013, 09:05 AM

#55

-=Zeqs=-

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Billman250

I can say this...almost all the cases I've seen of blown engines were due to drivers lack of or improper oil checking.

GET IN THE HABIT of being religious with checking your oil. Set the trip meter, and each time it resets to zero (1000 miles) check your oil. 1000 miles is safe, provided you start full.

Fill you oil level to the top of the top X, no more. Even one x short of full is great. Over filling has its own dangers.

I have many customers over 120k, including me. They will be going for a long long time.

I agree with Billman250 on oil checking. It should be a religious ritual for any car, not just the S2k. I make it a point to check mine weekly and my F20 is at 165k, second chassis.

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09-21-2013, 04:11 PM

#56

AP1Driver

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F20 indeed. When mine dies I'll order one from another market

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09-22-2013, 09:55 PM

#57

ronnuke

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Over 208000 on my AP2 with little to no oil burning. I ran conventional oil for first 20,000 miles then switched to Amsoil full synthetic. I have to check my oil after about every 3000 miles to add a quart or so.