gfacter

I just replaced my rear calipers (Honda remanufactured) since the rubber seal is cracked, surely do to many track days.

I just cannot bleed out the pedal mushyness, I have gone through a litre and a 1/2 of ATE blue (speedbleeders)

I rebuilt the front calipers last year and didnt have this problem.

The brakes had new fluid and Goodrich front lines installed before the WTD event and were fantactisc the whole 1500 mile round trip, the fluid was not boiled during the trip.

Can anyone suggest something to try other that putting more fluid through the system? Where is this mystery pocket of air?

Thanks.

Chazmo

George, maybe the master cylinder is shot?

Picturepro

are the rubber brake line all good not craked

On my last car I switched to stainless steel brake lines spunge went away

Asura

Vacuum bleed them.

I personally am not a fan of Speedbleeders.

Next time use Valvoline Dot 4 at $4 for a big bottle, then go to ATE when done.

CoralDoc

Mushy pedal = air is still in the hydraulic lines.

I used to use Speedbleeders until I had a similar problem to yours due to the sealant on the bleeder threads wearing out. Try bleeding the system the old-fashioned way. You can do this with Speedbleeders, you just need to open and close them like standard bleeders.

In my experience it takes about a liter of brake fluid to be able to purge all of the old fluid and air after the system is openned up, so you're not too much more than that.

If you are bleeding correctly and can't get the air out, check carefully for where ait may be getting in. Since the rear calipers were replaced, carefully inspect all unions between the brake lines and the calipers. I assume that you replaced the special washers on each side of the banjo fittings, correct?

Trip

I always used the old system to bleed my brakes, and it always works out fine.
I used just half a litre to bleed the whole system after a flush.

gfacter

I have bled the brakes on this car many times with the Speed Bleeders (perhaps they are not sealing?, I will see if I can find a helper and do it the old fashioned way.

I did replace the banjo bolt washers also.

I am sure the Master Cylinder is ok, it was fine just a week ago, this all started with the new calipers. THe car only has 33K on it.

RadioZero

just to help question, is the rule to still bleed the furtherest from the master cylinder first, then work your way closer to the master cylinder?

gfacter

Honda has you do it Drivers Side front, Pass front, pass rear, drivers rear,

I do both fronts at once (2 bleeder bottles) and both rears at once

SC_Highlander

When I replaced my front calipers, I found that I needed the 'jolt' from building up pressure and opening the bleeder to get all the air out. Just using the speed bleeders didn't get all the air out.