S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

replaced radiator

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Old 10-15-2009, 02:49 PM
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Last week my radiator started leaking so I took it to the nearest mechanic (A Porsche specialist) to have it checked. They removed the radiator and replaced the top plastic tank which had cracked, and then put the radiator back in. They never unplugged the battery.

When I got the car back it was idling all over the place so I took it back for them to look at. They told me they discovered the problem being that they originally put the vacuum hoses on backwards and that it should be fine now.

It's not. The idle is still bogging and dipping when I pull up to lights. My question is, could this possibly be caused by something they did? Or are the problems most likely unrelated? Should I take it back there?

Strangely, the tacho doesn't really dip much, but the engine does. It's as if the tacho is starting to give false readings once the engine goes below 1k rpm
Old 10-15-2009, 03:00 PM
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If it's load related, try relearning the ECU and see if it goes away.
Old 10-15-2009, 03:04 PM
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Yeah usually when the battery is unplugged the idle learn procedure has to be done for the ECU.
Old 10-15-2009, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Nickamsweet,Oct 15 2009, 03:04 PM
Yeah usually when the battery is unplugged the idle learn procedure has to be done for the ECU.
The battery was never unplugged so if there is a problem with the ECU, it's load related. I've put about 50km on the car since the problem started but it's still bogging.

I know that the ECU will just relearn by itself, but how long does it normally take for the ECU to relearn? I don't want to wait a month because I couldnt reasonably go back to the Porsche mechanic after that long and expect them to look at it again.
Old 10-15-2009, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Honda Life Dunk,Oct 15 2009, 04:07 PM
The battery was never unplugged so if there is a problem with the ECU, it's load related. I've put about 50km on the car since the problem started but it's still bogging.

I know that the ECU will just relearn by itself, but how long does it normally take for the ECU to relearn? I don't want to wait a month because I couldnt reasonably go back to the Porsche mechanic after that long and expect them to look at it again.
Unplug battery for 5-10 minutes. plug back in. Ensure everything is off (fan/lights radio etc). Turn car on. Let car warm up until the fan cycles 2 times. Then the idle is relearned.

It'll take 200-500 miles for the car to relearn the MAP if I'm not mistaken, but idle will be relearned.
Old 10-20-2009, 03:18 AM
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Originally Posted by rob-2,Oct 15 2009, 03:09 PM
Unplug battery for 5-10 minutes. plug back in. Ensure everything is off (fan/lights radio etc). Turn car on. Let car warm up until the fan cycles 2 times. Then the idle is relearned.

It'll take 200-500 miles for the car to relearn the MAP if I'm not mistaken, but idle will be relearned.
Ok I tried this, but the car is still nearly stalling at an idle, and today it started to bunny hop a little when I took off in 1st gear and accelerated up to 3k RPM.

It runs fine until the engine warms up, but then it often comes close to stalling at an idle, and its especially bad with the a/c on.

Any more ideas?
Old 10-20-2009, 05:59 AM
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Changing a radiator has nothing to do with vacuum hoses, as fas as I know.
You've got the top inlet and bottom outlet, the overflow hose and the fan.
No vacuum.
And I'm not sure you can actually remove the plastic top tank on an OEM radiator and replace it with a new one.

Did they bleed the coolant system well enough?
How is the temp reading on the dash?
Is there coolant in the overflow tank?
Does the level in ^ move up & down with engine temp?
Maybe there is an air pocket in the Idle Control Valve - it has coolant flowing through it - making it have a different temp than the ECU thinks it has.

Old 10-20-2009, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Oct 20 2009, 05:59 AM
Changing a radiator has nothing to do with vacuum hoses, as fas as I know.
You've got the top inlet and bottom outlet, the overflow hose and the fan.
No vacuum.
And I'm not sure you can actually remove the plastic top tank on an OEM radiator and replace it with a new one.

Did they bleed the coolant system well enough?
How is the temp reading on the dash?
Is there coolant in the overflow tank?
Does the level in ^ move up & down with engine temp?
Maybe there is an air pocket in the Idle Control Valve - it has coolant flowing through it - making it have a different temp than the ECU thinks it has.

The temp reading on the dash is fine. The car runs OK when cold, and terrible when the car gets hot, especially if the weather is hot also.

There is coolant in the overflow tank (i assume you mean the clear plastic resevoir), and yes, the level does go up and down with changes in temp. Is this symptomatic of an air pocket in the idle control valve?
Old 10-20-2009, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SpitfireS,Oct 20 2009, 05:59 AM
And I'm not sure you can actually remove the plastic top tank on an OEM radiator and replace it with a new one.
I did a search and found that a number of s2ki members have replaced the plastic top tank previously without any problems. It's just held on by 4 clasps, and it's a lot cheaper to replace the top tank than the whole radiator, obviously.
Old 10-22-2009, 07:16 AM
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This is my old MY00 OEM radiator.
Please tell me how to remove the top tank by removing just 4 clips.




Honda Life Dunk Posted on Oct 21 2009, 12:36 AM
There is coolant in the overflow tank (i assume you mean the clear plastic resevoir), and yes, the level does go up and down with changes in temp. Is this symptomatic of an air pocket in the idle control valve?
No, it means it working properly and the level is ok.

What fuel are you using?




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