Replace alternator rectifier or buy aftermarket alternator?
#11
My advance auto alternator was just a denso with a new plate. An alternator is actually a pretty simple device. An approved aftermarket one will not compromise even the slightest thing in your car, and this is coming from a OEM stock nutbag when it comes to my S.
When replacing the rectifier there's a chance that it has already compromised your voltage regulator (which is NOT in the rectifier...). So replacing it may be setting you up for still future failure than going the aftermarket route.
When replacing the rectifier there's a chance that it has already compromised your voltage regulator (which is NOT in the rectifier...). So replacing it may be setting you up for still future failure than going the aftermarket route.
#12
Well, finally installed the new rectifier last night and the dash flickering is gone. I'll have to test out the old rectifier one of these days w/ a multimeter just for shits and giggles. Regarding the install, the hardest part is removing/reinstalling the alternator. Do yourself a favor and remove the airbox so you can tap the bottom of the alternator in place. I wasted a good 1/2 hr trying to get it in w/ the airbox in place, and finally removed it which made it much easier.
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Originally Posted by redwing497' timestamp='1404228412' post='23225524
How long would you say it took you from start to finish?
#17
Removing the alternator is a piece of cake. Remove the bolts, and pry the bottom out. For reinstalling, I couldn't line it up to get the top bolt in first. I removed the airbox, then set the alternator in place, then tapped the bottom of the alternator w/ a hammer to line it up with the bottom bolt hole. I tried prying it into place w/o luck. Once the bottom is lined up, top is easy.
#18
I replaced my failed reman to a new (hopefully better) reman last night and here's what I've found:
1. I concur with SlowTeg, removal is easy. Remove airbox assembly if stock. Remove the belt. Remove the connections on the back. Remove both bolts, swivel the top end to the right then use a pry bar to push the bottom out.
2. Re-installation was different the first time I did it. Like SlowTeg, I couldn't get the top bolt lined up first. Getting the bottom to line up is part luck part, part patience. Line up the bottom (make sure its not skewed). This will take a few tries and cussing. Once you do have it lined up perfectly, a tiny tap with a small 2x4 and hammer should miraculously make it slide into the spot.
3. Insert both bolts to secure in its place. Plug in the two connections on the back. Torque both bolts to 33ft-lbs.
1. I concur with SlowTeg, removal is easy. Remove airbox assembly if stock. Remove the belt. Remove the connections on the back. Remove both bolts, swivel the top end to the right then use a pry bar to push the bottom out.
2. Re-installation was different the first time I did it. Like SlowTeg, I couldn't get the top bolt lined up first. Getting the bottom to line up is part luck part, part patience. Line up the bottom (make sure its not skewed). This will take a few tries and cussing. Once you do have it lined up perfectly, a tiny tap with a small 2x4 and hammer should miraculously make it slide into the spot.
3. Insert both bolts to secure in its place. Plug in the two connections on the back. Torque both bolts to 33ft-lbs.
#19
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Thanks for the the tips, gentlemen. Did this yesterday and went exactly how you guys said. Hardest part was getting the thing back into place. I'm not sure if this is a result of the new rectifier, but my whole instrument panel is brighter than it was before I changed the part. Could that just be from having the battery disconnected and resetting the ECU?
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