Repacking the CV axles
01-15-2014, 07:37 PM
#32
I finished checking the diff out today to see how things are looking inside. I had done a full rebuild of PuddyMod #1 a few months ago, installing a new OSGiken LSD, micro polished Richmond 4.57R gears, all new bearings and seals. The rear looks great and has broke in very nice 
I also finished the prototype V2 PuddyMod cooling cover, the V1 did not have the added oil capacity, only the extra large heat sink.
I will be installing the refreshed axles and diff back into the car late tomorrow afternoon
I also finished the prototype V2 PuddyMod cooling cover, the V1 did not have the added oil capacity, only the extra large heat sink.I will be installing the refreshed axles and diff back into the car late tomorrow afternoon
Can't wait to send you my diff(s) and get a nice working AP2 diff in my car.
01-18-2014, 11:01 AM
#34
Looks great.
Did you re-use your CV boot bands? How do you reinstall them? Do you need a special tool? I have a set of spare axles with damaged CV boots and I'd like to fix them up.
Did you re-use your CV boot bands? How do you reinstall them? Do you need a special tool? I have a set of spare axles with damaged CV boots and I'd like to fix them up.
01-18-2014, 06:55 PM
#35
The bands are reusable and I did use a Pair of pliers designed for removing and reinstalling the bands. You can buy new boots to replace the damaged ones.
02-18-2014, 05:20 PM
#36
I thought I would update this DIY and let you guys know how things are.....I used the Valvoline full Synthetic grease for CV axles and so far everything is smooth and working perfectly I have put about 500 miles on the refreshed axles and have had no issues at all, seems like they should be good for another 14 years 
I have put about 500 miles on the refreshed axles and have had no issues at all, seems like they should be good for another 14 years
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rizzllzahid (03-30-2021)
02-18-2014, 05:36 PM
#38
02-18-2014, 05:50 PM
#39
That is a great question, I was careful how I removed them, used setup dye to mark them how they came off. I did not want to put one on backwards or on in the wrong place. I was sure to install everything back exactly where it came from and in the proper direction
02-18-2014, 11:21 PM
#40
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For our inboard spider-in-cup style CV's I would not have used a general lithium complex (*) NLGI 2 grease, simply because it is not at all like the original.
This is not an opinion, I'm sure you have seen the grease that came out.
The "original" replacement was also not at all like NLGI 2.
The people that defend their 10W-30, holding the manual in one hand and their beloved 10W-30 in the other saying "Only out of my cold dead hands" switch to a completely different CV grease (or diff oil...) just because the person/company that sells it says it's ok.
500 miles of driving proves little, you know that.
The axles do not spin that fast, IMO the grease needs to be thin enough to be at the wall of the CV cup to lube where its needed most.
(*) yes, lithium complex based grease is general grease.
The more exotic ones are the urea based (well known overhere as clutch spline grease) and alu-complex.
Oh well.....
The diff looks great!
This is not an opinion, I'm sure you have seen the grease that came out.
The "original" replacement was also not at all like NLGI 2.
The people that defend their 10W-30, holding the manual in one hand and their beloved 10W-30 in the other saying "Only out of my cold dead hands" switch to a completely different CV grease (or diff oil...) just because the person/company that sells it says it's ok.
500 miles of driving proves little, you know that.
The axles do not spin that fast, IMO the grease needs to be thin enough to be at the wall of the CV cup to lube where its needed most.
(*) yes, lithium complex based grease is general grease.
The more exotic ones are the urea based (well known overhere as clutch spline grease) and alu-complex.
Oh well.....
The diff looks great!