Removing throttle body heater lines
11-02-2010, 06:33 PM
#11
Originally Posted by ikeyballz,Nov 2 2010, 10:13 PM
Alright, TB bypass is done, It was such a pain in the ass I dont think I'm going to recommend anyone to do this... Theres a pinch hose clamp right above the driver side engine mount that needs to be removed, and it is just in the wrong place. If the intake manifold was removed, it'd probably be a cinch but with it on, its nearly impossible to see or use a plier on. I pinched it with my fingers to get it off and my fingers right now are numb as fock.
I recommend anyone who wants to do this mod to just keep that bottom hose and bypass it straight to the bleeder with a adapter in the middle, but i really dont know how much this will help. I checked the TB/IM temp after I bypassed it and it felt exactly the same temperature. Perhaps if there was a hondata gasket it might be cooler? No clue why the temp didnt drop significantly, but I dont think its worth doing unless your hoses are fraying like mine.
I recommend anyone who wants to do this mod to just keep that bottom hose and bypass it straight to the bleeder with a adapter in the middle, but i really dont know how much this will help. I checked the TB/IM temp after I bypassed it and it felt exactly the same temperature. Perhaps if there was a hondata gasket it might be cooler? No clue why the temp didnt drop significantly, but I dont think its worth doing unless your hoses are fraying like mine.
11-02-2010, 06:54 PM
#13
Talk about PITA, I just changed both rad hoses to swap them out for blue Samcos, clearly one of the worst jobs a person could do on these cars. Hope those are the last hoses this car ever needs.
11-02-2010, 07:00 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,531
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
^Haha, I was thinking that when I was changing the little one... Not looking forward to having to do that one. I think for that I'm just going to slice the hose and use one of those hand tightening hose clamps so I dont have to force a plier/screwdriver in there. Everything on this S is so damn easy to work on....except these damn heater/radiator hoses. gah.
11-03-2010, 08:01 AM
#15
Registered User
Originally Posted by JFUSION,Nov 2 2010, 09:33 PM
it still heats up due to underhood heat. I believe underhood heat temps are just as high, if not higher than coolant temps so eventually the metal parts end up being just as hot. The rate of heating is likely slowed down but after a certain amount of time in city driving the temps will be pretty similar. The same thing applies to Hondata gaskets, heat absorbed underhood leads to metal parts heating up despite being isolated with a gasket.
11-06-2010, 09:50 PM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,531
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by SgtB,Nov 3 2010, 06:01 AM
It will absorb engine heat, but it's no where near the coolant temp.
I now change my mind to recommend this modification to people looking at lowering heatsoak.
11-07-2010, 08:57 AM
#18
I drove 60 miles on the freeway to dyno my non-adjusted car. Put down 207hp for a 70K 04.
I wonder if there would be any real power gains to this mod or it's all in peoples head?
I wonder if there would be any real power gains to this mod or it's all in peoples head?
11-07-2010, 01:16 PM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 4,531
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by rob-2,Nov 7 2010, 07:57 AM
I drove 60 miles on the freeway to dyno my non-adjusted car. Put down 207hp for a 70K 04.
I wonder if there would be any real power gains to this mod or it's all in peoples head?
I wonder if there would be any real power gains to this mod or it's all in peoples head?
Actually, a CAI and a TB bypass will probably work together well, the cooler initial charge will cool the TB faster as you get on it so it'll be even cooler, faster.
If I had a datalogger I would measure out the intake temp before and after this mod, if anyone has it PLEASE do it. Remember a 1% decrease in temp will be a 1% increase in power (theoretically).
I dont know for sure if the increase in power will be observable in a dyno since it -might- be so little, but who knows. I don't have easy access to a dyno or datalogger, if someone does please update us!
11-07-2010, 03:01 PM
#20
Originally Posted by ikeyballz,Nov 7 2010, 03:16 PM
While its true a CAI will definitely cool down the intake charge, I can 100% say for sure that removing the TB lines will cool it down as well. No matter how cool the charge is coming in, if its getting heated by the TB the intake air mass will expand in volume and slow the charge behind it - creating less power.
Actually, a CAI and a TB bypass will probably work together well, the cooler initial charge will cool the TB faster as you get on it so it'll be even cooler, faster.
If I had a datalogger I would measure out the intake temp before and after this mod, if anyone has it PLEASE do it. Remember a 1% decrease in temp will be a 1% increase in power (theoretically).
I dont know for sure if the increase in power will be observable in a dyno since it -might- be so little, but who knows. I don't have easy access to a dyno or datalogger, if someone does please update us!
Actually, a CAI and a TB bypass will probably work together well, the cooler initial charge will cool the TB faster as you get on it so it'll be even cooler, faster.
If I had a datalogger I would measure out the intake temp before and after this mod, if anyone has it PLEASE do it. Remember a 1% decrease in temp will be a 1% increase in power (theoretically).
I dont know for sure if the increase in power will be observable in a dyno since it -might- be so little, but who knows. I don't have easy access to a dyno or datalogger, if someone does please update us!
If it cannot be measured it's probably not realistically doing anything.
Would really love some info on this. Like a before and after, same day dyno.