Removing a shear-head bolt
#1
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Removing a shear-head bolt
Is this possible? I have a part to replace (key cylinder) on my other car. It has a shear-head bolt holding it on, so I drilled the head off. Unfortunately, I now need to re-install the part, but the remaining (threaded) portion of the bolt is still inside the part. Is there a way to get that out without damaging the threads so I can re-install the part with a new bolt? What's the trick?
#3
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i believe most tool companies (craftsman, etc.) have bolt remover kits. i have also heard of people using (reverse/left hand) drill bits to remove them. basically those "grab" the offending bolt and allow you to thread it out. i don't remember the process exactly, as it has been a while. hope this helps.
#4
Originally Posted by PrecisionS2K,Jan 30 2008, 08:00 PM
i believe most tool companies (craftsman, etc.) have bolt remover kits. i have also heard of people using (reverse/left hand) drill bits to remove them. basically those "grab" the offending bolt and allow you to thread it out. i don't remember the process exactly, as it has been a while. hope this helps.
you basicly drill thru the center of the bolt almost to the end of it, insert the bolt out, and with a wrench or vice grips, unscrew it--I've had to do it several times- on broken bolts and screws (bolts are actually easier to remove) --it's not as hard as it sounds. Depending on the size you need, the tool and the bit are usually under 10 bucks for both
good luck
#6
may want to hit that broken bolt with a shot of WD40 tonight and let it soak in to make it as loose as possible.
don"t worry if you don't get the drilled hole exactly in the center of the bolt (it's very hard to get it exactly on center) as long as the hole is deep enough for the bolt out bit to grab, it'll work fine
(I had to buy a small bolt out (size 1) last week--it and the 5/16 drill bit were both about $6)
don"t worry if you don't get the drilled hole exactly in the center of the bolt (it's very hard to get it exactly on center) as long as the hole is deep enough for the bolt out bit to grab, it'll work fine
(I had to buy a small bolt out (size 1) last week--it and the 5/16 drill bit were both about $6)
#7
mxt_77
The heads of these bolts are designed to be drilled off. That releases the tension and they unscrew easy. I have to do this when I changed from an AP1 key set to an SP2 key set. It was easy.
The heads of these bolts are designed to be drilled off. That releases the tension and they unscrew easy. I have to do this when I changed from an AP1 key set to an SP2 key set. It was easy.
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#8
Originally Posted by Stratocaster,Jan 30 2008, 08:36 PM
mxt_77
The heads of these bolts are designed to be drilled off. That releases the tension and they unscrew easy. I have to do this when I changed from an AP1 key set to an SP2 key set. It was easy.
The heads of these bolts are designed to be drilled off. That releases the tension and they unscrew easy. I have to do this when I changed from an AP1 key set to an SP2 key set. It was easy.
#9
Originally Posted by jetboater,Jan 30 2008, 07:43 PM
I'm not familar with this particular bolt--will he still need to use a bolt remover (bolt out) to get it out?
#10
Originally Posted by Stratocaster,Jan 30 2008, 08:57 PM
A shear head bolt is what they use to mount the ignition key in place. The tops "shear" off when torqued. The idea is that it will take you some time to remove and install a new key cylinder to steal the car if you have to drill out the bolts.