rlaifatt

I'm trying to remove my diff and am stuck at removing the prop shaft as I can't loosen the socket screws. So far have tried allen hex socket + various wrench handles, regular allen wrench, multiple vice grips and pipe wrenches, with penetrating oil, +/-heat (butane torch), and still not able to budge even one of them. Any suggestions?

rlaifatt

bump

pantyraider

Hmm....mine came out with an allen wrench after shooting some PB Blaster and letting it sit for an hour. I've heard of people having to dremel the head of the screw to get it out. I guess that would be the last resort.

You've tried an allen wrench and using a rubber mallett to tap it loose?

rlaifatt

Yes, and I've stripped the allen socket of two of them already . The Reverend was helping me today and we tried everything. Reverend suggested next to cut off the heads, then try to separate the peices enough to get between to cut the screws to drop the shaft, then remove the screws (when not under tension) with vice grip. But before going down that route and possibly getting stuck part way, I wanted to check to see if anyone has another solution.

Slows2k

Cut the head of the bolts off. You should be able to drop the diff out an take out the rest of the bolts with some pliers.

It's prettty typical for these bolts to be a PITA to remove. A good fitting allen key and a sharp "shock" with the wrench seems to be the best at gettign them out with out stripping them.

rlaifatt

Any suggestions on how to cut the heads off?

milkbubble

I did my clutch install a while back and Billman250 told me a great tip with these. Take your 6mm hex socket and grind down the margin on the hex so it is perfectly flat. This will give you a good bite on the bolt. Penetrating fluid helped greatly also. I only stripped 1 bolt in the entire clutch install. To cut the head off the one bolt that I did strip.. I cut it with a hacksaw and spun the threads out with a set of pliers. Another tool I whipped is as follows... I used a 6mm allen wrench, inserted the long handle end into a 6mm deep 1/4" drive socket and put a 1/4" drive extension on that to make a hex key breaker bar.. Add more extensions if you need more leverage!

Slows2k

A hacksaw works, But I like to use an abrasive cut off wheel in a die grinder. It's faster

rlaifatt

Thanks for the suggestions. So after cutting off the heads, are you able to separate the flange from the prop shaft enough to clear the cut-off screws? Also seems you would need to have a very clean cut so the shaft can slide off the cut ends of the screws. I'm worried that I might start this and not be able to complete it, and I need the car (it's my racecar) ready for Laguna in less than 2 weeks.

The reason I'm removing the diff is because last weekend after 2 days of hard sessions in 110* heat at Willow Springs (so high speed. ave. close to 100 mph) I noticed some diff fluid leaked out of the breather valve on top. Fluid level was still full, but when drained it was very black (LE607, and just 3-4 rack days, so usually still dark red), and there were some flakes of metal on the magnetic drain plug (like very small grains of rice but very flat), more than I have seen in the past (usually it's fine filings). So to avoid taking a chance with it at Laguna, I ordered another diff which I received and intend to swap in, then take the time to rebuild the original (need a spare for racing anyway). Alternative for Laguna is to stay with the original and just put in fresh LE607 and hope it's fine. Any thoughts as to the cause of the problem at Willow and whether I should just replace the fluid or rebuild?

Slows2k

I've got a shallow 1/4 drive allen key that fits the bolts well, and a 1/4 drive breaker bar that clears the propshaft. I try not to strip them, but sometimes it happens. On cars that get taken apart often, (such as your racecar) replace the bolts as soon as the hex starts to round off.

You shouldn't have a problem gettting replacement bolts before Laguna. As far as the cause of the failure, you'll know more when you take the diff apart.