Removing front axles... anyone done it (I must replace my studs)
02-12-2004, 07:36 PM
#21
Administrator
uhm.. I've removed my hubs 2 times.
You have to get new bearings they are destroyed (split in half when you remove the hub. Furthermore getting the half of the bearing off the old hub is a PITA. you're best off to just get new bearings and hubs.
And as said here, there is NO way to remove the lugs without removing the hubs first. And to remove the hubs in the front you have to pop the upper ball joint. And there are 2 bolts that hold on the lower ball joint so you can remove them. Oh and the steering rod too.
You'll probably want to get an alignment when you're done.
You have to get new bearings they are destroyed (split in half when you remove the hub. Furthermore getting the half of the bearing off the old hub is a PITA. you're best off to just get new bearings and hubs.
And as said here, there is NO way to remove the lugs without removing the hubs first. And to remove the hubs in the front you have to pop the upper ball joint. And there are 2 bolts that hold on the lower ball joint so you can remove them. Oh and the steering rod too.
You'll probably want to get an alignment when you're done.
02-12-2004, 07:50 PM
#23
Moderator
Ok, just got done with a major brake upgrade on an S, here's what I believe can be done...You can do it the right way and go through the press, or you can cut a small notch in the TIN SHIELD, not the knuckle, with no ill effects. The only catch is that the longer studs my not clear....this is all a guess, I didn't try to remove the stud....DO NOT put any grind marks or notches in the knuckle, only the black tin shield...you can knock the stud out and it will "float" behind the hub, not coming completely out, then you can maneuver it in position to see if the tin cut will fly, before you do any cutting.
02-12-2004, 08:04 PM
#27
Moderator
That's why I wrote THIS IS ALL A GUESS, I never said it could be done....It's cool man, I'm glad someone has tried it and found out the real deal. I believe you. I was going to tap the stud out and float it to see if it would fly....but it was a customers car, didn't want to experiment...peace.
02-12-2004, 08:22 PM
#29
Moderator
Ok back to basics...what is the reason for the longer studs? all I can think of is 1:thicker wheels, or 2:a stud with a longer "leader" on the tip for fast wheel changes while racing.