SpitfireS

B.Money Posted on Apr 7 2007, 01:41 AM
Knowledge = power!
Read this:
http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/index.html
Take your time

A simple answer to "The Oil Question" is... oil flow is very important.
What will give the highest flow at any given temperature : the thinnest oil recommended by the manufacturer.

Full true syn 0W-30 is what I use.
(Syn for quality and longevity)
30 at operating temp.
0W at a cold start.
(0W is the thinnest available)
I made my decision based on the website I linked to.

Succes!
And have fun making up your own mind

XZLR8N

I put it in and noticed my car no longer smokes at start up or under hard driving (which was a bad thing in the first place. My uncle put this oil in his Suburban after it devloped a knock and the knock went away. Another oil you could look into is called Synergyn. I don't know much about it, but my grandfather has been in racing all of his life and says that it is a very good oil. I would still go with the Schaeffer though. IIn the end the choice is your though. I would just go with something that is readily available to you, like Mobil 1.

slipstream444

[QUOTE=XZLR8N,Apr 7 2007, 01:19 PM] I put it in and noticed my car no longer smokes at start up or under hard driving (which was a bad thing in the first place.

slipstream444

Amsoil (just about every weight - including 5W30, 10W30, and 10W40 - but not including their XL 7500 or semi-synthetics) is proven through industry standardized tests to greatly reduce friction (much better performance than standard or EP Mobil 1, as well as every readily available synthetic in the U.S.), is the most stable oil available (NOACK volatility rating), offers extended drain intervals (the first to do so - decades ago), offers low temp pumpability (within a degree or two F) of the best performing synthetics (the only real world benefit to using M1 over 'dino' oil), and will cost you only about 50 cents more a quart than standard M1 - cost a little less than M1 EP.
Amsoil was the best synthetic oil tested by the Australian performance magazine "Fast Fours and Rotaries" a few years ago. This article also highlighted the fact German manufactured Castrol Syntec performed much better than U.S. Castrol Syntec. That oil is available in some U.S. stores.

slipstream444

[QUOTE=SpitfireS,Apr 7 2007, 02:44 AM] B.Money Posted on Apr 7 2007, 01:41 AM

Knowledge = power!
Read this:
http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/index.html
Take your time

RGlbk

I am using Mobil 1Racing 0W-30.

High amounts of EP additives!

I broke the motor in with Dino and then changed to the Mobil 1R at 4500 miles.

Hasn't consumed a dropp of oil. Car has 6900 miles on it.

blackout

If you can feel the difference between synthetics, you can probably see ghosts too...

SpitfireS

slipstream444 Posted on Apr 8 2007, 03:59 PM
The benefit is money saved by longer OCI's at the same protection.
A higher quality oil will stay in spec longer.

"Bust that 3k mile service MYTH!"



Depending on your cold start temperatures a 10W might be as thick as a 5W.
0W oils are thinner across the range at any given temp and are usually full syn oils.

B.Money

Is there anything such as flushing involved when switching to synthetic?

slipstream444

It's not required unless the synthetic you're about to switch to specifically directs you to do so. As long as the oil you select states it's compatible with other oils, there's no advantage to it - especially in a relatively new car.
If you're switching to synthetic in an old car (over 100,000 miles) and it was serviced with a garbage oil (prior to switching) - you could consider doing it. However, it may be a waste of your time or money switching to synthetic in an older car - and an older car may develop leaks when you switch to a synthetic. With that being said, I'm stationed in the Middle East and the temps get into the 130s in the summer - I switched the beater Maxima I drive out here to Amsoil 10W40, and so far no leaks.

I recommend what I call a quick change after switching to another oil. It's simple - switch to your synthetic oil of choice (oil and filter) and then change the oil and filter again between 1000 and 2000 miles after your switch to synthetic. I believe it's a lot better than dumping a quart of solvent into your engine.