S2000 Under The Hood S2000 Technical and Mechanical discussions.

Rebuilt f20c1

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Old 06-18-2013, 09:33 AM
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^ Same method still applies if you want longetivity out of your new guts

And I agree that the oil consumption issues are likely caused by a careless break in more than a factory machining process fault. I could be wrong but it seems likely considering that some burn no oil and some burn a shit load..
Old 06-18-2013, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by PaGEmaZt3r
... however my cylinder walls were bored. I now have steel sleeves.
Anything else you forgot to mention?


Originally Posted by AP1Driver
And I agree that the oil consumption issues are likely caused by a careless break in more than a factory machining process fault.
Honda did change the honing process by using a dummy head - but maybe that's a myth that keeps repeating itself on the www.
I could be wrong but it seems likely considering that some burn no oil and some burn a shit load..
Or switching to syn oils too soon, just another way to be impatient, because what the manufacturer recommends in the owners manual is only written to accellerate wear so you'll buy another one asap.... right?


Don't get me wrong: even without FRM's I would still break it in gently, with mixed loads, etc.
Old 06-18-2013, 01:31 PM
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Do not use any synthetic oil for breakin. In fact I would not switch over to a synthetic oil at all until at least 6,000 miles (and all my cars eventually end up with synthetic oil). This should be after running mineral oil for at least the first two oil changes. You may want to do your first oil change at 1,500 miles.

Honda UOA from Pennzoil products show that Honda engines like Pennzoil.
Old 06-18-2013, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by NorwestS2K
Do not use any synthetic oil for breakin. In fact I would not switch over to a synthetic oil at all until at least 6,000 miles (and all my cars eventually end up with synthetic oil).
100%
Old 06-19-2013, 07:55 AM
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I dropped the block in last night after finishing up installing the head and valve adjustment. I bolted it up to the transmission after installing the flywheel clutch etc. after work today I will get as much done as possible with installing the rest of the parts. I am going to run autozone conventional oil for a break-in period. However you guys are saying to not switch to synthetic for a while. Approximately how many miles would you recommend until I switch to a synthetic brand? FYI I will be running royal purple. Mobil1 or valvoline. I do not use that pennzoil or castrol crap.
Old 06-19-2013, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by PaGEmaZt3r
I dropped the block in last night after finishing up installing the head and valve adjustment. I bolted it up to the transmission after installing the flywheel clutch etc. after work today I will get as much done as possible with installing the rest of the parts. I am going to run autozone conventional oil for a break-in period. However you guys are saying to not switch to synthetic for a while. Approximately how many miles would you recommend until I switch to a synthetic brand? FYI I will be running royal purple. Mobil1 or valvoline. I do not use that pennzoil or castrol crap.

so you wont run "that Pennzoil or Castrol crap" yet youre talking about running royal purple? that makes no sense....and to answer your question, you should probably go a few oil changes before switching to synthetic
Old 06-19-2013, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by PaGEmaZt3r
I dropped the block in last night after finishing up installing the head and valve adjustment. I bolted it up to the transmission after installing the flywheel clutch etc. after work today I will get as much done as possible with installing the rest of the parts. I am going to run autozone conventional oil for a break-in period. However you guys are saying to not switch to synthetic for a while. Approximately how many miles would you recommend until I switch to a synthetic brand? FYI I will be running royal purple. Mobil1 or valvoline. I do not use that pennzoil or castrol crap.
You got the oil mixed up... Royal purple is the crap one. Pennzoil and Castrol are far superior. Royal all gimmick and marketing...
Go around 15,000 before you switch to full synthetic...
Old 06-19-2013, 09:12 AM
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Royal Purple is still around???
Old 06-19-2013, 09:13 AM
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15,000? Dang, I thought it was more like 1500... ? Oils change at 300, 1000, and at 1500 you can switch to synthetic? Not stating this is fact, more or less a question
Old 06-19-2013, 10:22 AM
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Maybe not for this engine. But I have been building strong long-lasting engines since I was a kid. I ripped apart a lot of blocks to see engine build-up and sludge from different brands of oil. I have always used valvoline and royal purple depending on the use of the vehicle in my engines. If you have not personally rebuilt an f20c or any other engine for that matter the. Don't bother replying to my thread about how castrol is a superior oil lol.

And FYI all brands of oil are good. Or they wouldn't be in business. Engine oil is a personal preference. I am using my own first hand experience in choosing the brand. I just wanted to know more about the break-in period

And the original engine before I dropped a valve had almost 80,000 on it. The cylinder walls were beautiful other than the #3 due to the valve. Oil I used. 10w 30 valvoline.


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