XxMerlinxX

I like the mototune way of breaking in an engine as well. As for oil, any decent dino-oil plus a break-in additive from AMSoil, Lucas, or Redline.

PaGEmaZt3r

Thank you guys for the input. I will make the best of the information an go from there.

Andersonracing

And so the break in method wars begin.....

thanasis11

There was someone that tested this and the result was unless you change the valve springs then there is no reason to baby the engine and it actually makes more power if you push it hard. Valve springs have a weird coating that breaks down, some of them do, and it goes into your oil and can f@#k shit up. Scored cylinders is a bunch of bull.

AP1Driver

Your certified Honda "tech" needs to go back to school. My preferred method is always 4-5 tanks of fuel in a high performance engine, like the F, especially with FRM liners: 1st tank 0-1/4 throttle and nothing above 1/3 for the whole tank, 0-1/3 no more than 1/2 2nd, 0-1/2 no more than 2/3 3rd, 0-2/3, no WOT throttle 4th, and then some mixed low RPM and WOT 5th tank. Broken it at this point (~1,200-1,500 miles). Most people are way to impatient to do this and find their next rebuild taking place before it needs to. Don't listen to me though, I haven't been rebuilding engines since I was 12-13 or anything . I've built race engines for my bikes and quads that have seen 200+ hours on a single set of rings at mostly WOT and still I break down the top ends to find completely clean cylinder walls, ring lands, rings and piston skirts with almost no wear marks and rarely even have to hone my cylinders or replace Nikasil plating. Micrometer will show specs still within or barely out of factory tolerances as well 99.9% of the time. This same theory applies to basic small, single and twin cylinder, 2 and four stroke engines in lesser amounts, as well as any other piston engine, car or otherwise. Try it, you will never see a puff of blue oil smoke for the life of the engine, which would be a very long time if it was lubricated/assembled properly and is maintained...

davidc1

Well check this out. http://www.mototuneu..._in_secrets.htm
[/quote]

I also like the MotoMan's method. Basically, vary RPM's a lot, and lots of WOT in low - mid rpms.

My favorite oil is from Joe Gibbs Racing. These guys know there stuff. I've been using their LS30 oil in three different cars. An Lake Speed, their oiling expert, is one of the most knowledgable guys in the country about oiling engines.

I broke my engines in with the FR30 oil. I also happen to have a case which I'd sell you cheap.

http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/...break-in-oils/

SpitfireS

Look at the facts: FRM.
That stuff NEEDS slow break-in.
Forget about chrome cylinder wall break-in methods, they do not work well for FRM.
IOW: follow what AP1Driver posted.
In addition: use crappy el-cheapo dino 10W-30 oil for the break-in period and do not add anti-wear additives.
Break-in IS wear.

davidc1

I agree with SpitfireS. I think the reason we see so, so many S2k's burning oil is that they weren't slooowly broken in. But I also advocate the use of break-in oil.

jimi

It's not really science. put some good ole Mobil 1 In & follow the owners manual. first 600mi. no full throttle starts, do not exceed 5500 rpm for 600 mi.(no V-tec)and go

PaGEmaZt3r

Ok guys, thank you for everything, however my cylinder walls were bored. I now have steel sleeves. Not factory honda whatever-plated stuff.