S2KPUDDYDAD

I was not referring to the "bearings" and heat at all. You can heat a bearing and cool the part you are placing the bearing to, that

chris_barry

I have a large arbour press and 30T press in my workshop but I still use heat regularly.

I work a lot on aluminium and magnesium casings ( hewland, Dallara etc). As these materials expand a lot at operating temperatures the bearings are an interference fit at room temperature. If you don't heat them you run the risk of damaging an expensive housing. With magnesium transaxles its impossible to press the diff side bearings in cold, the hole isn't big enough.

I agree that you don't need heat on a cast iron pumpkin, but it can make life a lot easier for first timer people learning and doing a DIY in their garage. ( the type of people who ask how to questions on these forums.

Chris.

S2KPUDDYDAD

I hope you guys are understanding my input in my post on the pressing of the cup (not the cone or bearing) into this Honda cast iron case.
If you use heat to do this pressing on this Honda case you could have a bad result. The cup will press in with an easy "pressed fit" (no heat required) not a slip fit, or a fit requiring the use of heat.

It is very easy to stretch the race in this case, I know I have done it. I have experience making the mistake.

I have great admiration for you guys working with exotic metals. We do not have much involvement in anything cool like titanium or magnesium.

Keith

Thanks for all the input guys... but just to be clear, I'll be pressing the outer race bearings into the pumpkin/housing... right?

Keith

Keith

*****Update*****

Bought $150 in parts to replace the oil seals, bearings, cups, nut and pinion spacer.



New axle oil seals


Used a socket + mallet to press into place:


Finished product


Baffle back into place with some lock tight