Rebuilding a pumpkin... aka differential
#11
Be sure to get all the metal that may have lodged it's self into the inside of the aluminum cover.
When you re install the baffle plate use some lock tight or Honda lock on the screws. If you do not it can be disastrous.
When you put the bearing cups back in place you need to be sure to press them in straight. If you try to use a hammer and mull you can damage the housing. If the cup slides in easy then the housing has been stretched from when the gears blew. I can repair this for you and save the housing. The cup must be seated firmly with a pressed fit. If you can move it once in place or if it goes in to easy the housing damaged.
When you re install the baffle plate use some lock tight or Honda lock on the screws. If you do not it can be disastrous.
When you put the bearing cups back in place you need to be sure to press them in straight. If you try to use a hammer and mull you can damage the housing. If the cup slides in easy then the housing has been stretched from when the gears blew. I can repair this for you and save the housing. The cup must be seated firmly with a pressed fit. If you can move it once in place or if it goes in to easy the housing damaged.
#14
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Wildncrazy,Apr 27 2009, 06:56 PM
What about all the cracks in the casing in that picture of the gouge?
Superficial or is that a sign of more damage?
Superficial or is that a sign of more damage?
Thanks for the tips Ben, I was going 'press' the outer race bearings by using a plastic mallet and wide enough socket. The old ones were firmly in place when I was trying to remove them. I'll let you guys know how it goes... I'll definitely post pictures...
Keith
#15
Originally Posted by Keith,Apr 27 2009, 10:11 PM
Those are casting marks...
Thanks for the tips Ben, I was going 'press' the outer race bearings by using a plastic mallet and wide enough socket. The old ones were firmly in place when I was trying to remove them. I'll let you guys know how it goes... I'll definitely post pictures...
Keith
Thanks for the tips Ben, I was going 'press' the outer race bearings by using a plastic mallet and wide enough socket. The old ones were firmly in place when I was trying to remove them. I'll let you guys know how it goes... I'll definitely post pictures...
Keith
Do not bang them in as you stated it is best to find someone with a press. I understand they were not easy to remove but, once the cup is removed is when the damage will reveal it's self.
Use a sharp chisel to remove the embedded metal lodged in the cover.
#17
Originally Posted by Keith,Apr 27 2009, 11:06 PM
Gotcha Ben... I was thinking about getting a press anyhow... would a 6 ton press do? Will be enough to press the pinon bearings in/out?
Keith
Keith
A 6 ton press is plenty for the cups and maybe fine for your pinion too. Once in a while the large pinion bearing can be a real bugger to remove.
We also made all our own tools to work on this gear box
#18
Heating up the bearings or castings can make assembly much easier.
I find that heating up the roller bearings with a paint stripping heat gun expands them enough so you can just drop them over the pinion. I then follow up with a quick press to make sure they are bottomed out.
Likewise with the housings. With wheel bearings, if you heat to 100-150C the bearings almost fall in. (especially if you freeze the bearings in the freezer section of the workshop beer cooler for a few hours).
I find that heating up the roller bearings with a paint stripping heat gun expands them enough so you can just drop them over the pinion. I then follow up with a quick press to make sure they are bottomed out.
Likewise with the housings. With wheel bearings, if you heat to 100-150C the bearings almost fall in. (especially if you freeze the bearings in the freezer section of the workshop beer cooler for a few hours).
#19
Originally Posted by chris_barry,Apr 28 2009, 01:24 AM
Heating up the bearings or castings can make assembly much easier.
I find that heating up the roller bearings with a paint stripping heat gun expands them enough so you can just drop them over the pinion. I then follow up with a quick press to make sure they are bottomed out.
Likewise with the housings. With wheel bearings, if you heat to 100-150C the bearings almost fall in. (especially if you freeze the bearings in the freezer section of the workshop beer cooler for a few hours).
I find that heating up the roller bearings with a paint stripping heat gun expands them enough so you can just drop them over the pinion. I then follow up with a quick press to make sure they are bottomed out.
Likewise with the housings. With wheel bearings, if you heat to 100-150C the bearings almost fall in. (especially if you freeze the bearings in the freezer section of the workshop beer cooler for a few hours).
#20
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chris_barry Posted on Apr 28 2009, 08:24 AM
S2KPUDDYDAD Posted on Apr 28 2009, 03:29 PM
[QUOTE]This works when you don
Heating up the bearings or castings can make assembly much easier.
S2KPUDDYDAD Posted on Apr 28 2009, 03:29 PM
[QUOTE]This works when you don