Slowcrash_101

Since he can only use 2000cc his only real option is to find a spare bottom end somewhere, slap your head on it, and call it a day. Save the rest of your money for reliability mods, that, some bolt ons, and a good tune will go a long way. You can get a used bottom end for about $800 usd, another $800 to refresh it proper. About the same to get a good oil cooler, and diff cooler. Just make sure the cylinders are ok in whatever you buy, then maybe get a new oil pan with better baffling.

windhund116

Bill,


Has anyone blueprinted and balanced the AP1 or AP2 engine? Stock OEM parts. Is it worth it?


Thanks!

NoMoreCivicsPlease

Just throwing this out there if you needed something quicker, as I was looking in to rebuild and got all of these same answers. I was waiting for a decent bottom end for a looong time. So I bought a whole motor for $2500 from TAE, motor was flawless, took 3 days to receive shipping, 1 day to put it in, been running and reving to 9k since, wish I went that route from day one. Good luck

MM3Kwolik

I do on my OEM rebuilds. I've been able to squeeze a few more HP out of stock rebuilds this way. Sent one motor off to Evans Tuning for a customer with a Comptech Supercharger kit and it was the most HP and TQ they'd seen out of any car running that same setup. There is definitely room for improvement in the balancing of the stock motor. The tolerances aren't much and generally everything is pretty close to perfectly balanced, but even the slightest deviation will result in a slight loss of power.

Is it worth it? I think so, because any time you can have everything as close to perfectly balanced as possible, you're only going to have LESS wear than with a motor that is slightly out of balance.

bgoetz

I do on my OEM rebuilds. I've been able to squeeze a few more HP out of stock rebuilds this way. Sent one motor off to Evans Tuning for a customer with a Comptech Supercharger kit and it was the most HP and TQ they'd seen out of any car running that same setup. There is definitely room for improvement in the balancing of the stock motor. The tolerances aren't much and generally everything is pretty close to perfectly balanced, but even the slightest deviation will result in a slight loss of power.

Is it worth it? I think so, because any time you can have everything as close to perfectly balanced as possible, you're only going to have LESS wear than with a motor that is slightly out of balance.
[/quote]


What types of motors are you dealing with though? Are these preventative rebuilds or toasted motors like the OP? If I had a motor that didn't score cylinder walls I wouldn't hesitate trying to get it down to you for a rebuild, it just seems like messed up cylinder walls are hard to work with on these engines.

I suppose one option I would consider is having Jordan source a block close to his shop and do an OEM rebuild on it. I am not sure shipping a messed up block down that may or may not be useable would be cost effective.

Chitoki

Supertech or Ferrea? Im really curious now as I am using Ferrea CompPlus valves

iDomN8U

Why it's so important for people like yourself and others that see this on a daily basis need to chime (which you do) and dispel rumor from truth.

Some parts work well together, some do not.

Which parts are deemed "s2ki" certified? Maybe a sticky outlining this in more detail would be appropriate as oppose to shoddy search engine results and hope to hell you come across reliable info.

To start:

TOP End:
OEM F20C Head rebuild
OEM valves/springs/retains
For mild engine builds, using Ferrea beehive valve springs? with OEM valves, Oem retainers
for high rpm builds: Ferrea beehive valve springs, oem valves, Ti Skunk2 retainers? (good for 9500 rpm? utilizing stock F20c bearings)
Extreme rpm builds: same as above but use lights rods and arp bearings with bearing tolerances that work!

Bottom End:
OEM replacement/refresh (walls and crank in good condition), OEM bearings, OEM compression/oil rings
Mild N/A Resleeving due to damaged walls and cannot be honed: Sleeve recommendation/Piston recommendation
Mild boosting: Inline Pro, CNC?
High Boost:
Extreme:


Just from reading up from Billman, Wadzii, Jordan I have slowly gather what works reliably, but taking all that knowledge and centralizing it for modern aftermarket parts would be a huge asset to the community.

Others can chime in and discredit or approve based on actual results.

Thoughts?

MM3Kwolik

I do on my OEM rebuilds. I've been able to squeeze a few more HP out of stock rebuilds this way. Sent one motor off to Evans Tuning for a customer with a Comptech Supercharger kit and it was the most HP and TQ they'd seen out of any car running that same setup. There is definitely room for improvement in the balancing of the stock motor. The tolerances aren't much and generally everything is pretty close to perfectly balanced, but even the slightest deviation will result in a slight loss of power.

Is it worth it? I think so, because any time you can have everything as close to perfectly balanced as possible, you're only going to have LESS wear than with a motor that is slightly out of balance.
[/quote]


What types of motors are you dealing with though? Are these preventative rebuilds or toasted motors like the OP? If I had a motor that didn't score cylinder walls I wouldn't hesitate trying to get it down to you for a rebuild, it just seems like messed up cylinder walls are hard to work with on these engines.

I suppose one option I would consider is having Jordan source a block close to his shop and do an OEM rebuild on it. I am not sure shipping a messed up block down that may or may not be useable would be cost effective.
[/quote]


Some are guys with catastrophic bearing failure where the sleeves and pistons were still okay, others were simply major issues where the head had to come off anyway and they were at higher milage so they opted to do the whole thing while it was apart. I frequently build sleeved motors as well for the guys that can't seem to keep valves in the head or spark plugs torqued properly.

Kilomph

Yes. Experienced members real world knowledge is always pertinent and would save many a headache along with countless dollars. I've got 119k on my F20c and plan on running it till she either pops or is obviously tired. I'd love to retain 9k RPM with some sort of 2.1/2.2l build but can't seem to find much information on a setup like that.

Who starts the thread?

AP2.V1

Sooo any updates OP?