reassembling the transmission case
#1
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reassembling the transmission case
I'm at the point of aligning the main shaft spline.
the transmission case and the motor has 0.7cm in between.
has anyone got stuck at this point as well?
I wiggled and turned the casing to reach this point, but i just can't seem to wiggle the last 0.7cm in.
any advices? is it the flywheel bearing hole that's not aligned with the main shaft at this point???
the transmission case and the motor has 0.7cm in between.
has anyone got stuck at this point as well?
I wiggled and turned the casing to reach this point, but i just can't seem to wiggle the last 0.7cm in.
any advices? is it the flywheel bearing hole that's not aligned with the main shaft at this point???
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Is the gap the same at the top and at the bottom?
You do have the clutch fork out of the way (in the trans housing) as in the picture?
Did you put the trans in gear so you can turn the output flange to line-up the input shaft splines?
Did the 2 dowel pins allready catch to line-up the trans and engine?
When I was at this stage I used the bolts (in a x-pattern) to get the trans and engine together.
Turning in very smal steps and watching & feeling carefully.
You can't push the pilot bearing out the flywheel, its backed-up by the crank shaft.
I was seriously afraid at the time it would though as you have to press the pilot bearing out of the flywheel towards the crankshaft.
But it can't.
The pilot bearing has an outside diameter of 38mm.
The hole in the crankshaft is 34mm.
In this pic you can see where the bearing is in relation to the crankshaft.
IMO, if you only have a 7mm gap between trans and engine, the trans input shaft is allready starting to go into the pilot bearing, meaning everything is lined-up properly.
I would have liked it a lot better too if the trans just slided against the engine but it didn't.
You do have the clutch fork out of the way (in the trans housing) as in the picture?
Did you put the trans in gear so you can turn the output flange to line-up the input shaft splines?
Did the 2 dowel pins allready catch to line-up the trans and engine?
When I was at this stage I used the bolts (in a x-pattern) to get the trans and engine together.
Turning in very smal steps and watching & feeling carefully.
You can't push the pilot bearing out the flywheel, its backed-up by the crank shaft.
I was seriously afraid at the time it would though as you have to press the pilot bearing out of the flywheel towards the crankshaft.
But it can't.
The pilot bearing has an outside diameter of 38mm.
The hole in the crankshaft is 34mm.
In this pic you can see where the bearing is in relation to the crankshaft.
IMO, if you only have a 7mm gap between trans and engine, the trans input shaft is allready starting to go into the pilot bearing, meaning everything is lined-up properly.
I would have liked it a lot better too if the trans just slided against the engine but it didn't.
#4
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I put the fork in and used a small prybar to disengage the clutch at that point. With it in gear and disengaged wiggling it is, as spitfire said, all you have to due. It'll slide on like butter.
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I did what spitfireS did after triple checking everything else. I got it a quarter of an inch all the way around and tightened the bolts in an x pattern to bring it together (a little at a time) Since the transmission and engine were so close much of the threads on each bolt were allready threaded, and by moving step by step slowly I made sure I wasn't putting to much pressure on the bolts risking stripping them out. The dowel pins were what was holding me up. At one point I pulled them out of the transmission housing. They slide in and out of the holes in the housing easily, but were much tighter when I tried to slide them into the engine. What I did was move them from the transmission and tap them into the engine so when I lined every thing up the pins would slide into the transmission case (instead of the other way around) where they weren't such a tight fit. After I was done I turned the crank with a 19 mm socket on a breaker bar to insure it spun smoothly.
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yea i have like 6mm of gap right now and I'm trying to wiggle and turn and stuff to get it to slam shut, but i can't. it will budge, but it won't close the gap.
right now i'm trying to rotate the main shaft AND push the tranny case in at the same time, but no luck - maybe it's the wrong concept.
are you guys saying to put it in gear??
and tighten the bolts in an X pattern to bring the gap together?
right now i'm trying to rotate the main shaft AND push the tranny case in at the same time, but no luck - maybe it's the wrong concept.
are you guys saying to put it in gear??
and tighten the bolts in an X pattern to bring the gap together?
#7
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I put it in gear which allowed me to turn the output shaft thus lining up the input shaft splines. disengaging the clutch allowed the disk to line up on center. It does sound like you're past that point though. You may be hitting the pilot shaft bearing race, or like mentioned above, the dowel pins are fighting you. Make sure the transmission is rotated in line with the dowels, and is in perfect line with the crank. If the transmission is canted any the dowels will fight you. My transmission slid on with no effort after that.
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I was afraid and thought i was pushing the flywheel bearing out. but i guess it can't be pushed out.
For future reference:
- once about 7mm of gap has been established between the tranny case & motor, start using the main bolts to close the 7mm gap. Bolt it down in a criss cross X fashion. You should be able to rotate the screw by the twist of the wrist with the rachet.
- If you've reached 7mm of gap, the splines are already lined up and ready to be closed.
- wiggle and turn the tranny case little by little to get the splines in line (of course the tranny case has to be equally lined up to the level of the motor).
For future reference:
- once about 7mm of gap has been established between the tranny case & motor, start using the main bolts to close the 7mm gap. Bolt it down in a criss cross X fashion. You should be able to rotate the screw by the twist of the wrist with the rachet.
- If you've reached 7mm of gap, the splines are already lined up and ready to be closed.
- wiggle and turn the tranny case little by little to get the splines in line (of course the tranny case has to be equally lined up to the level of the motor).