1nate7

I did a search and found a lot of valuable information. I am trying to make this as easy as possible and I was wondering if I could just swap in a complete spindle assembly off a salvage car. Does removing the spindle from the axle automatically damage the wheel bearing? I'd like to avoid having to press in a new bearing but I'm guessing there is no way around it.

Also, I see AP1/AP2 knuckles have different part numbers. Anyone know if they are interchangeable?

Kirpich

If it fits, it's interchangeable. Best way is to call a junkyard and they'll tell ya. Make sure they have a 30-day warranty.

Removing the hub from the spindle probably will damage the bearing.

There's a chance not to damage it, though, if you set the press up to be ready to press out, and then put the whole thing in the freezer for an hour. Then real quick, press it out.

If you buy it from a junkyard, though, you probably won't need to press in/press out. I didn't when I had to change the driver side on the rear on mine. I did need an alignment, though.


If you do press out, don't forget to remove the c-shaped retaining ring in front of the bearing. I forgot if it's on the inside or the outside. Look closely, you'll see it.

1nate7

I can't pull the knuckle off the axle. The manual states "Remove the driveshaft outboard joint from the knuckle by tapping the driveshaft end with a plastic hammer while pulling the knuckle outward." If only it were that easy. It seems to be seized up, any ideas?

Elistan

I recently removed a rear knuckle to take it to a guy to have the bearing replaced. I too found it very difficult to remove the spindle from the hub - I simply used a lot of WD-40, a hammer (I destroyed a rubber mallet, and went to a regular hammer beating on a block of wood placed against the spindle [and eventually destroyed the block of wood too]) and moved the spindle in and out what little amounts I could. The amounts kept getting bigger and bigger until I could finally remove it altogether.

Elistan

ps - there's the spindle, which is part of the axle set, also known as the outboard constant-velocity joint (part 6 in the first picture.) Then there's the knuckle (part 3&4 in the second picture.) And finally the hub, part 2, and bearing, part 36, in the third picture.

Removing the spindle does no damage whatsoever. Removing the bearing/hub assembly from the knuckle destroys the bearing but shouldn't damage the knuckle. Removing the remains of the bearing from the hub might not damage the hub, but could depending on how it's done. The hub and/or knuckled could be damaged prior to all this anyway, depending on why you're looking to replace parts.

Spindle, part 6:


Knuckle, parts 3 and 4:


Bearing, part 36. Hub, part 2.

1nate7

Thanks for the tips. I bought a complete knuckle assembly so I don't have to press anything in or out.

my2ks2k

time out for a few minutes of threadjack

elistan, i swapped my inner cv cups (twice this week, but that's another story :eyeroll and the second time, decided to remove the whole axle. since i've done 2 driver's side wheel bearings, that axle came out fine, but the passenger side basically was not coming out. i banged on it with a fiber hammer, a big metal hammer/block of wood, and a big brass hammer...no dice. i finally just removed the whole hub/axle assembly because i was worried i might damage the splines...did your splines show any damage or ill effects when you got your axle loose?

1nate7

Good point. How hard is it to remove the whole axle? Does that make it easier to remove the knuckle?

my2ks2k

unless you bought a knuckle/hub/bearing assembly, you'll still have to press a bearing into the knuckle, and then the hub into the bearing.

but no, typically you'd remove the knuckle via the ball joints, then the axle.

this is starting to get muddy. if your problem is that the axle won't come free from the hub, and you have a bad bearing, then you probably want to either try to free the axle first via elistan's method while everything is still on the car. you may also be able to remove the whole assembly (axle and knuckle/hub/bearing) and put it in a vise or clamp and get a better angle on it, or take it to a machine shop or something.

again though, unless you bought an entire knuckle/hub/bearing assembly, you'll have to do some pressing, and you'll still have to find a way to get the axle out of the hub.

Elistan

Nope, no issues at all once I got it removed! (Coincidentally, it was the passenger side for me, too.) There was a ton of dust type stuff - I assume brake pad dust that built up over time. I just cleaned it up, then when putting it all back together I greased the splines with some of the stuff that comes with the caliper rebuild kits. Slid right in without any issue.