Rear upper ball joints replacement questions
#1
Rear upper ball joints replacement questions
My driver's side rear wheel bearing began to fail. FYI, symptoms were a rhythmic screeching sound when coming to a stop and/or making sharp right turns. The good news is that I replaced the bearing (a shop took care of the pressing step) and the screeching is gone. The bad news is that the upper ball joints got pretty fairly well squished and lost a fair amount of grease. I also had a hell of a time getting the castle nuts back on- I had to apply pressure with a wrench to keep the stem from rotating. I probably caused some damage to the threads... nub mistake.
To the point!
I'm fairly sure I'll need to replace those sooner or later, so I had a few questions.
1) Can someone confirm that I'll need to replace the entire upper control arms? ARM, L. RR. (UPPER) - 52400-S2A-J02 and ARM, L. RR. CONTROL - 52345-S2A-003? Anything else?
2) Should I consider instead replacing the joints with an aftermarket or OEM solution? Is it worth the effort?
3) What symptoms should I look out for to indicate that they are failing? After a test drive, everything seems fine, except that I swear a feel a little unsteadiness when changing lanes on the highway at high speed. I'm not sure if I'm just being paranoid though.
4) Any other tips or suggestions?
Thanks for any advice you can offer...
To the point!
I'm fairly sure I'll need to replace those sooner or later, so I had a few questions.
1) Can someone confirm that I'll need to replace the entire upper control arms? ARM, L. RR. (UPPER) - 52400-S2A-J02 and ARM, L. RR. CONTROL - 52345-S2A-003? Anything else?
2) Should I consider instead replacing the joints with an aftermarket or OEM solution? Is it worth the effort?
3) What symptoms should I look out for to indicate that they are failing? After a test drive, everything seems fine, except that I swear a feel a little unsteadiness when changing lanes on the highway at high speed. I'm not sure if I'm just being paranoid though.
4) Any other tips or suggestions?
Thanks for any advice you can offer...
#2
Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hartselle, AL
Posts: 2,162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The rear upper ball joints do not have a lot holding them in. I've used a punch and a rubber mallet to get them out and you don't have to do anything but tap it. You wanna make sure it's fully seated. Lift that wheel and grab it on top and bottom and flex it back and forth watching the joint to check for play. Ball joint "stems" do spin. The threads are probably fine unless you hit them with a hammer. I use the SPC camber kit but it's probably cheaper than buying new upper control arms. I did buy a used arm for 65 with good ball joint from someone parting out a car on the forum. How did you get the knuckle off the car?
#3
The rear upper ball joints do not have a lot holding them in. I've used a punch and a rubber mallet to get them out and you don't have to do anything but tap it. You wanna make sure it's fully seated. Lift that wheel and grab it on top and bottom and flex it back and forth watching the joint to check for play. Ball joint "stems" do spin. The threads are probably fine unless you hit them with a hammer. I use the SPC camber kit but it's probably cheaper than buying new upper control arms. I did buy a used arm for 65 with good ball joint from someone parting out a car on the forum. How did you get the knuckle off the car?
I removed the knuckle by following the steps at http://robrobinette.com/S2000Bearing.htm . I did use the ball joint removal tool that comes in from the side, but it still managed to squish a lot of grease out of the upper two. The lower one came off without a hitch, however.
#4
I took the car out on the highway and there's definitely a "loose" feeling in the rear when changing lanes and going over a bump. I made sure that the tire pressures were even. Also, when making a sharp right turn, I hear a single soft clunk coming from the wheel well of concern. Perhaps one of the castle nuts isn't tightened as far as it should be and the knuckle is moving on the stem?
Edit: Does anyone know if the arms come with ball joints installed and ready to go, or is the purchase of the boots, grease, and clips necessary?
Edit: Does anyone know if the arms come with ball joints installed and ready to go, or is the purchase of the boots, grease, and clips necessary?
#6
Former Moderator
I would recommend the new a-arm and I'm pretty sure the ball joint comes with the boot installed and ready to go.
If you do decide to go with a ball joint replacement here's the how-to: http://robrobinette.com/S2000BallJoint.htm
If you do decide to go with a ball joint replacement here's the how-to: http://robrobinette.com/S2000BallJoint.htm
#7
Finally got the a-arm and upper arm in. Is there anyone out there who's done this replacement before and can confirm that they are greased and ready to go? Those boots look different than what's currently on the car, and I don't know if there's any way to check if they have grease short of removing them.
Sorry to be such a nub, but I want to make sure I get this repair done right.
Sorry to be such a nub, but I want to make sure I get this repair done right.
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Hartselle, AL
Posts: 2,162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If they come already like that then they are good to go. Just install.
I killed Robs pic. For that I apologize.
You have to really hit it. Take your time and line up. I've removed countless knuckles without any ill effects with this method. Just watch the ball joint boot and threads. A few hard hits from a good dead blow hammer with make it pop right out. I've hated ball joint separators and pickle forks forever because they tend to destroy boots. I leave the castle nut threaded on just a few threads just out of habit since I was taught that way. A rubber mallet will not work for this.
PS. enjoy my paint work.
I killed Robs pic. For that I apologize.
You have to really hit it. Take your time and line up. I've removed countless knuckles without any ill effects with this method. Just watch the ball joint boot and threads. A few hard hits from a good dead blow hammer with make it pop right out. I've hated ball joint separators and pickle forks forever because they tend to destroy boots. I leave the castle nut threaded on just a few threads just out of habit since I was taught that way. A rubber mallet will not work for this.
PS. enjoy my paint work.
#9
Thanks for the advice. I replaced the a-arm without incident and retightened the other arm. The car feels firm and planted again. I'm still planning on replacing the other arm, but I'm going to wait until I can schedule an alignment.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post