Rear suspension giving me trouble
12-03-2015, 08:21 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rear suspension giving me trouble
So I am at a lost... my passenger rear tire is cambered to all hell... pulled apart rear suspension compared upper and lower arms to each side. No differences in measurements so I ruled out bent arms. All bushings are good no damages from what I can see. I have aligned the rear subframe using the alignment holes and following the write up I found on the forum. Still have almost a 2 degree difference on the right rear.
Current measurements
LR: -1.6
RR: -3.5
Camber bolt is maxed out can not for the life of me get the RR to put a little more positive Camber.
The only things I can think of is structural damage(I haven't seen any)
Hub is damaged(doesn't look like it to me)
I'm at a complete loss. Any and all help/advice would be great. Car is an AP1 MY00.
Thanks in advance!
Current measurements
LR: -1.6
RR: -3.5
Camber bolt is maxed out can not for the life of me get the RR to put a little more positive Camber.
The only things I can think of is structural damage(I haven't seen any)
Hub is damaged(doesn't look like it to me)
I'm at a complete loss. Any and all help/advice would be great. Car is an AP1 MY00.
Thanks in advance!
12-03-2015, 09:50 AM
#2
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
Posts: 8,357
Received 1,377 Likes
on
1,029 Posts
Spindles are easy to bend without detection.
You sure you're turning the camber adjustment? Not the toe?
You sure you're turning the camber adjustment? Not the toe?
12-03-2015, 10:37 AM
#3
Spindle/knuckle is the likely culprit.
At this point I think I've bent and had to replace almost as many suspension components as are still original. Definitely a weak point on any S2000 that is driven hard on bumpy roads. At this point it helps me to mentally think of them as wear items.
At this point I think I've bent and had to replace almost as many suspension components as are still original. Definitely a weak point on any S2000 that is driven hard on bumpy roads. At this point it helps me to mentally think of them as wear items.
12-03-2015, 12:01 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
12-03-2015, 12:02 PM
#5
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Spindle/knuckle is the likely culprit.
At this point I think I've bent and had to replace almost as many suspension components as are still original. Definitely a weak point on any S2000 that is driven hard on bumpy roads. At this point it helps me to mentally think of them as wear items.
At this point I think I've bent and had to replace almost as many suspension components as are still original. Definitely a weak point on any S2000 that is driven hard on bumpy roads. At this point it helps me to mentally think of them as wear items.
12-03-2015, 12:16 PM
#6
PartNo: 52215-S2A-010
Less than $200 before shipping for a new Honda part from bernardiparts.com. You might also check Majestic online as another Honda parts option.
Hopefully that's what it is!
Less than $200 before shipping for a new Honda part from bernardiparts.com. You might also check Majestic online as another Honda parts option.
Hopefully that's what it is!
12-03-2015, 12:49 PM
#7
The correct way to set rear camber and toe on these cars is really quite simple. By nomenclature the rear most adjuster is the toe arm, the tie rod is the camber adjustment. To set camber, loosen both and turn them in the same direction, to set toe loosen both and turn them in OPPOSITE directions. Bounce car several times after adjusting to settle the car and ensure your setting is correct. A loose ball joint can cause your camber issue, the spindle is the most likely culprit however. A bad wheel bearing can also cause your issue. It's almost impossible to eye whether a knuckle is bent or not, if the machine tells you it's off and nothing you can do fixes it, suspect that first, ball joint second(though it's much cheaper to replace a ball joint), lower control arm third, and wheel bearing a distant fourth. It's very rare the uppers are bent, unless the car was in a collision.
Trending Topics
12-03-2015, 07:39 PM
#8
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2015
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The correct way to set rear camber and toe on these cars is really quite simple. By nomenclature the rear most adjuster is the toe arm, the tie rod is the camber adjustment. To set camber, loosen both and turn them in the same direction, to set toe loosen both and turn them in OPPOSITE directions. Bounce car several times after adjusting to settle the car and ensure your setting is correct. A loose ball joint can cause your camber issue, the spindle is the most likely culprit however. A bad wheel bearing can also cause your issue. It's almost impossible to eye whether a knuckle is bent or not, if the machine tells you it's off and nothing you can do fixes it, suspect that first, ball joint second(though it's much cheaper to replace a ball joint), lower control arm third, and wheel bearing a distant fourth. It's very rare the uppers are bent, unless the car was in a collision.
12-04-2015, 09:48 AM
#9
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Illnoise. WAY downtown, jerky.
Posts: 8,357
Received 1,377 Likes
on
1,029 Posts
You can buy naked spindles from honda for $200. But you'll need hubs and bearings also.
I'd just buy a low mile JDM subframe on eBay. Sell your good parts from your car to make up the cost. I've had good luck with that method, and have ended up with quite a few useful spare parts.
I'd just buy a low mile JDM subframe on eBay. Sell your good parts from your car to make up the cost. I've had good luck with that method, and have ended up with quite a few useful spare parts.